The artisan western Oltrarno strip with cocktail-bar grammar at Mad Souls & Spirits, the natural-wine room at Il Santino, and Santarosa Bistrot's garden.
Simone Cipriani's Essenziale in Florence's San Frediano runs the open-kitchen tasting concept inside a former leather warehouse, with a lampredotto course.
OrderThe five-course tasting and the lampredotto reinterpreted dish if it is on the carte.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday; tasting menus only at dinner. Book three weeks ahead.
io Osteria Personale in Florence's San Frediano is Nicolo Baretti's modern-Tuscan tasting room, with the choose-your-own four-or-five course format.
OrderThe choose-your-own four-course tasting and any tortelli or pigeon course on the carte.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday; dinner only. Build the tasting around the maitre's wine suggestions.
Trattoria BBQ on Piazza Tasso in San Frediano cooks over wood: bistecca by the hectogram, chicken under a brick, peposo and pici with wild boar ragù.
OrderBistecca alla fiorentina (€6 per hectogram) or the mixed grill for two (€36); pici al cinghiale (€12) first.
TipPiazza Tasso is a residential square ten minutes west of Santo Spirito, so tables come easier than in the centre. Closed Wednesday; phone bookings 10:00-19:00.
Santarosa Bistrot in Florence's San Frediano sits inside the Arno-side park on Lungarno di Santa Rosa, an all-day cafe with a garden terrace, breakfast.
OrderCappuccino in the garden, the daily focaccia plate, an aperitivo spritz at sunset.
DrinkCappuccino in the garden
TipOpen daily 08:00-23:30. The park-side garden seats 80; closed when it rains.
Santarosa Bistrot in Florence's San Frediano runs an Arno-side bakery inside the park on Lungarno di Santa Rosa, with a daily-baked focaccia.
OrderThe daily-pressed focaccia, the slow-rise sourdough loaf, a cappuccino in the park.
TipOpen daily 08:00-23:30. Bakery slows from 14:00 onwards; arrive before 11:00.
Santarosa Bistrot in Florence's San Frediano sits inside the Arno-side park on Lungarno di Santa Rosa, with a garden cocktail bar, aperitivo plates and DJ.
OrderAperol or Hugo Spritz, the daily aperitivo plate, a Negroni in the park.
DrinkSpritz and aperitivo plate
FoodAperitivo plates, focaccia
TipOpen daily 08:00-23:30. The park-side garden seats 80; closed when it rains.
Rione is San Frediano's brewpub, the only Florence pub brewing its own beer on the premises with visible fermentation tanks behind the bar, pouring.
OrderAn Il Bovaro pour straight from the tank, the house pilsner, a wood-fired pizza margherita.
TipLunch service 12:00-15:00; reopens 17:30. Brewing tours run by request through the website's prenota form.
A whole day given to lampredotto inside the Orto San Frediano, an Oltrarno garden opened for the occasion: the classic panino dipped in broth, lampredotto in zimino or with artichokes, penne al ragu di lampredotto.
TipFree entry, no booking. Florence's trippai cook from 10:00 and the Chianti aperitivo starts at 18:00.
Santarosa Bistrot in Florence's San Frediano runs a garden brunch programme inside the Arno-side park, with a focaccia carte, eggs benedict and a Sunday.
OrderDaily focaccia with eggs, cappuccino in the park, an aperitivo spritz to finish.
TipWalk-in only on weekdays; weekend brunch books out by 11:30. The garden seats 80 in summer.
NOF runs a small Borgo San Frediano room with nightly live music since September 2011, programming Italian songwriters, rock, blues, funk and jazz quartets across a free-entry calendar that has logged more than a thousand concerts in its first decade.
TipDoors at 19:00 for aperitivo, sets from 22:00. The room fits perhaps fifty so arrive early on weekends. Cocktails and a short small-plates kitchen run through service.
Dolce Vita has held a corner of Piazza del Carmine since 1985 as one of the Oltrarno's defining late-night cocktail rooms, with a long-running aperitivo cadence that turns into a Friday DJ floor and a bistro kitchen by Japanese chef Saeko Okada for a Tuscan-fusion menu through the week.
TipPiazza tables fill from 19:00 onward in summer; Friday's DJ programme is the dance slot, weekends run later than the schedule suggests. Cocktails sit around 10 euros.
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