Curly white shoots of catalogna chicory, soaked in iced water to crisp and curl, dressed with anchovy, garlic, vinegar and olive oil. The Roman winter salad.

Puntarelle (Cichorium intybus var. catalogna) ripen in the Lazio countryside from November through February and are a Roman winter staple, cleaned at the table by a specialised dressing-trimmer at trattorias like Felice a Testaccio. The cleaning is the work: each stem is split with a knife or a wire grid into long thin curls, then plunged into iced water until they curl and crisp. The anchovy dressing is the only correct dressing.

3 editor picks for Puntarelle alla romana in Rome, ranked by editorial score. All Rome signature dishes · Puntarelle alla romana across every city.

Felice a Testaccio ★ 4.6

€€Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.

OrderThe tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.

TipBook a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.

Flavio al Velavevodetto ★ 4.6

€€Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.

OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.

TipThe amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.

Matricianella ★ 4.3

€€Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico

Matricianella in Rome's Centro Storico runs the canonical Roman trattoria carte: amatriciana the dish that named the house, saltimbocca alla romana.

OrderBucatini all'amatriciana and saltimbocca alla romana, with a quartino of house Frascati.

TipClosed Sunday all day. Book a week ahead for the courtyard terrace; the indoor room is calmer.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Puntarelle alla romana makes more sense with someone from Rome explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

Taste Puntarelle alla romana with a local in Rome

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