History

Puntarelle (Cichorium intybus var. catalogna) ripen in the Lazio countryside from November through February and are a Roman winter staple, cleaned at the table by a specialised dressing-trimmer at trattorias like Felice a Testaccio. The cleaning is the work: each stem is split with a knife or a wire grid into long thin curls, then plunged into iced water until they curl and crisp. The anchovy dressing is the only correct dressing.

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Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 2 heads puntarelle (catalogna chicory hearts), about 600g total
  • 8 salt-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar (or 2 tablespoons each red wine vinegar and white wine vinegar)
  • 150ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • Ice for the water bath

Method

  1. Pull the puntarelle apart into individual shoots. Discard the outer green leaves (use them another day for braised greens).
  2. Slice each pale shoot lengthwise into thin matchsticks. The traditional Roman tool is a wire grid; a sharp paring knife works too.
  3. Plunge the cut shoots into a bowl of heavily iced water. Leave 1 to 2 hours until each strip has curled tightly into a tight C-shape.
  4. For the dressing, pound the garlic and anchovy in a mortar to a smooth paste. Whisk in the vinegar, then the olive oil in a slow stream until emulsified. Season with pepper; the anchovy gives all the salt the dish needs.
  5. Drain the puntarelle very well; pat dry on a clean tea towel. Pile into a wide shallow bowl.
  6. Pour over the dressing and toss gently. Serve immediately while the puntarelle are still crisp.

Tip from the editors. If you cannot find puntarelle outside Italy, use the white inner ribs of escarole or curly endive; the texture will be different but the dressing will not change.

Where to eat puntarelle alla romana

Puntarelle alla romana in Rome

Felice a Testaccio ★ 4.6

€€ Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.

OrderThe tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.

TipBook a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.

Directions Book

Matricianella ★ 4.3

€€ Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico

Matricianella in Rome's Centro Storico runs the canonical Roman trattoria carte: amatriciana the dish that named the house, saltimbocca alla romana.

OrderBucatini all'amatriciana and saltimbocca alla romana, with a quartino of house Frascati.

TipClosed Sunday all day. Book a week ahead for the courtyard terrace; the indoor room is calmer.

Directions Book

Flavio al Velavevodetto ★ 4.6

€€ Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.

OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.

TipThe amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.

Directions Book a table

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