Gricia is the fourth Roman pasta: rigatoni tossed in a sauce of crisp guanciale, rendered fat, grated pecorino romano and cracked black pepper. Often called the carbonara without the egg.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The gricia is the oldest of the four Roman pastas, predating tomatoes (and thus amatriciana) by centuries. The dish takes its name either from Grisciano, a hamlet near Amatrice in the Lazio mountains, or from the grici, the bread merchants who supplied flour and pasta to Roman trattorias before unification. The recipe is guanciale, pecorino, black pepper and pasta water with no tomato. The rigatoni shape (or in some kitchens mezze maniche) catches the pecorino emulsion in its ridges. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Trattoria Pennestri and Felice a Testaccio all serve canonical versions; the dish is considered the Roman pasta technique's purest test.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy
Tip from the editors. Like carbonara and cacio e pepe, gricia depends on the pasta-water-and-pecorino emulsion. Pan off the heat before adding the cheese; the residual warmth melts the pecorino without scrambling.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. The rigatoni alla gricia and polpette al sugo run the menu since 2008.
Signature: Rigatoni alla gricia, Polpette al sugo, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: The rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.
Tip: The amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.
Why locals love it: Hidden in the south Ostiense industrial edge, Tommaso Pennestri's modern trattoria runs the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata under most tourist radars.
Tip: Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. The tonnarelli cacio e pepe is tossed table-side; the saltimbocca alla romana is the late-lunch order.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Saltimbocca alla romana, Tiramisu
Order: The tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.
Why locals love it: Off the Re di Roma metro stop in the Esquiline edge, Sarah Cicolini's modern Roman kitchen runs trippa and pasta under most tourist itineraries.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day, Monday dinner. Book three weeks ahead for the 35-cover room.
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