History

The gricia is the oldest of the four Roman pastas, predating tomatoes (and thus amatriciana) by centuries. The dish takes its name either from Grisciano, a hamlet near Amatrice in the Lazio mountains, or from the grici, the bread merchants who supplied flour and pasta to Roman trattorias before unification. The recipe is guanciale, pecorino, black pepper and pasta water with no tomato. The rigatoni shape (or in some kitchens mezze maniche) catches the pecorino emulsion in its ridges. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Trattoria Pennestri and Felice a Testaccio all serve canonical versions; the dish is considered the Roman pasta technique's purest test.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 12 minTotal 22 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 200g rigatoni
  • 100g guanciale, cut into 1cm batons
  • 70g pecorino romano, finely grated
  • 1 teaspoon coarse black pepper, freshly cracked
  • Sea salt for the pasta water (a small amount; pecorino is salty)

Method

  1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the rigatoni until 2 minutes from al dente.
  2. Cook the guanciale in a dry pan over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes until the fat renders and the meat is crisp.
  3. Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of pasta water. Add the pasta to the guanciale pan off the heat.
  4. Add the grated pecorino and the cracked pepper, plus 3 tablespoons of pasta water. Toss vigorously to emulsify into a glossy sauce.
  5. Add pasta water tablespoon by tablespoon until the sauce coats every rigatono.
  6. Serve immediately with more pecorino and black pepper.

Tip from the editors. Like carbonara and cacio e pepe, gricia depends on the pasta-water-and-pecorino emulsion. Pan off the heat before adding the cheese; the residual warmth melts the pecorino without scrambling.

Where to eat rigatoni alla gricia

Rigatoni alla gricia in Rome

Flavio al Velavevodetto ★ 4.6

€€ Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.

OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.

TipThe amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.

Directions Book a table

Trattoria Pennestri ★ 4.6

€€ ItalianOstiense

Trattoria Pennestri is a italian room in Ostiense. Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.

Why locals goHidden in the south Ostiense industrial edge, Tommaso Pennestri's modern trattoria runs the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata under most tourist radars.

TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.

Directions Book a table

Felice a Testaccio ★ 4.6

€€ Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.

OrderThe tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.

TipBook a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.

Directions Book

Santo Palato ★ 4.7

€€ ItalianEsquilino

Sarah Cicolini's San Giovanni trattoria from 2017, Abruzzese cooking forequarters and offal; trippa alla romana, NYT-praised; moved to bigger room in 2025.

Why locals goOff the Re di Roma metro stop in the Esquiline edge, Sarah Cicolini's modern Roman kitchen runs trippa and pasta under most tourist itineraries.

TipClosed Sunday all day, Monday dinner. Book three weeks ahead for the 35-cover room.

Directions

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