Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local-buy.
Address: Galleria Umberto I 66, 80132 Napoli, Naples
Gay-Odin on Via Toledo in Naples sells the foresta (chocolate log) and the cioccolata calda since 1894, the city's defining chocolate counter with eight branches across town.
Try: Foresta chocolate log
Tip: Foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo; the take-home box of six pralines runs 12 euros.
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza the screen-famous Sophia Loren order, the angioletti dough fritters with prosecco starter.
Try: Montanara fried pizza
Tip: Closed Monday lunch. Montanara from the takeaway window runs 4 euros; pair with angioletti at 5 euros.
Pignasecca Friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood fritti in paper cone) to the morning market crowd from the dozen friggitoria counters.
Try: Cuoppo di mare (paranza in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cuoppo di mare 5 to 8 euros; cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00.
Passione Napoletana on Via dei Tribunali in Naples runs the pizza al portafoglio (folded pocket pizza) window, the working-quarter street pizza eaten one-handed on the walk.
Try: Pizza al portafoglio (wallet pizza)
Tip: Pizza al portafoglio runs 2 euros at the window; the queue moves quickly because no plates are issued.
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has poured the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) since 1905, the takeaway sweet for the Spaccanapoli walking ritual.
Try: Ministeriale chocolate-rum disc
Tip: Ministeriale at 4 euros at the counter; the takeaway box of six runs 22 euros for the Centro Storico walk.
Gay-Odin on Via Toledo in Naples sells the foresta (chocolate log) and the cioccolata calda since 1894, the city's defining chocolate counter with eight branches across town.
Try: Foresta chocolate log
Tip: Foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo; the take-home box of six pralines runs 12 euros.
Friggitoria Vomero in Naples is the funicular-station fritti counter (since 1938) serving the cuoppo di mare (anchovies, calamari, prawns) and the cuoppo di terra (crocchè, frittatine, arancini) in paper cones.
Try: Fritti cuoppo (mixed fritti in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cash only. Cuoppo medium runs 6 euros; queue forms 18:00 to 19:30 for the aperitivo crowd.
