vomeroMon-Sat 10:30-22:30, closed SundayCash only
Friggitoria Vomero in Naples is the funicular-station fritti counter (since 1938) serving the cuoppo di mare (anchovies, calamari, prawns) and the cuoppo di terra (crocchè, frittatine, arancini) in paper cones.
Try: Fritti cuoppo (mixed fritti in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cash only. Cuoppo medium runs 6 euros; queue forms 18:00 to 19:30 for the aperitivo crowd.
centro-storicoDaily 10:00-24:00
Di Matteo on Via dei Tribunali in Naples sells pizza fritta and frittatine through the streetside window since 1936, the Bill Clinton 1994 lunch stop in the city's legend.
Try: Pizza fritta
Tip: Pizza fritta runs 3 euros from the window; the queue starts at 11:30. Cash preferred at the window.
centro-storicoDaily 11:00-24:00
Sorbillo Lievito Madre on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the Sorbillo family's pizza fritta and al taglio counter two doors from the main pizzeria, with pizza fritta the unmissable order.
Try: Pizza fritta, pizza al taglio
Tip: No queue ticket needed at this counter; pizza fritta classic runs 4 euros, ripiena (stuffed) 5 euros.
centro-storicoDaily 12:00-24:00
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples runs a takeaway window selling ragu napoletano sandwiches plus the in-room paccheri al ragu, the modern Sunday-lunch ragu ritual portable for the street walk.
Try: Ragu napoletano paccheri sandwich
Tip: Walk-in counter for takeaway from 12:00; the sandwich runs 6 euros 50 with bread to mop the sauce.
centro-storicoTue-Sun 06:30-19:30, closed MondayCash only
Attanasio near Naples Central Station fries sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Try: Sfogliatella riccia and frolla
Tip: Closed Monday. Sfogliatella riccia 2 euros, frolla 1 euro 80. Cash only at the counter; queue forms 09:00-11:00.
sanitaDaily 07:00-22:00
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit and the local-buy.
Try: Fiocco di neve brioche with cream
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue 30 minutes on weekends.
vomeroDaily 06:30-21:30
Leopoldo in Naples has baked the taralli sugna and pepper (lard-and-pepper ring crackers) since 1940, the standing salty snack to walk with on the funicular ride to the Vomero.
Try: Taralli sugna e pepe
Tip: Taralli sold by the gram from the counter; a 200g bag runs 4 euros 50, perfect for the Vomero walk.
toledoDaily 07:00-20:00
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Try: Sfogliatella riccia hot
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local-buy.
materdeiTue-Sun 11:30-24:00, closed Mon lunch
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza the screen-famous Sophia Loren order, the angioletti dough fritters with prosecco starter.
Try: Montanara fried pizza
Tip: Closed Monday lunch. Montanara from the takeaway window runs 4 euros; pair with angioletti at 5 euros.
centro-storicoMon-Sat 09:00-20:00, closed SundayCash only
Pignasecca Friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood fritti in paper cone) to the morning market crowd from the dozen friggitoria counters.
Try: Cuoppo di mare (paranza in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cuoppo di mare 5 to 8 euros; cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00.
centro-storicoDaily 11:00-23:00
Passione Napoletana on Via dei Tribunali in Naples runs the pizza al portafoglio (folded pocket pizza) window, the working-quarter street pizza eaten one-handed on the walk.
Try: Pizza al portafoglio (wallet pizza)
Tip: Pizza al portafoglio runs 2 euros at the window; the queue moves quickly because no plates are issued.
centro-storicoDaily 07:00-21:00
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has poured the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) since 1905, the takeaway sweet for the Spaccanapoli walking ritual.
Try: Ministeriale chocolate-rum disc
Tip: Ministeriale at 4 euros at the counter; the takeaway box of six runs 22 euros for the Centro Storico walk.
toledoMon-Sat 09:00-20:00
Gay-Odin on Via Toledo in Naples sells the foresta (chocolate log) and the cioccolata calda since 1894, the city's defining chocolate counter with eight branches across town.
Try: Foresta chocolate log
Tip: Foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo; the take-home box of six pralines runs 12 euros.