Attanasio near Naples Central Station fries sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Tip: Closed Monday. Sfogliatella riccia 2 euros, frolla 1 euro 80. Cash only at the counter; queue forms 09:00-11:00.
Address: Vico Ferrovia 1/4, 80142 Napoli, Naples
Pignasecca Friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood fritti in paper cone) to the morning market crowd from the dozen friggitoria counters.
Try: Cuoppo di mare (paranza in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cuoppo di mare 5 to 8 euros; cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00.
Passione Napoletana on Via dei Tribunali in Naples runs the pizza al portafoglio (folded pocket pizza) window, the working-quarter street pizza eaten one-handed on the walk.
Try: Pizza al portafoglio (wallet pizza)
Tip: Pizza al portafoglio runs 2 euros at the window; the queue moves quickly because no plates are issued.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit and the local-buy.
Try: Fiocco di neve brioche with cream
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue 30 minutes on weekends.
Leopoldo in Naples has baked the taralli sugna and pepper (lard-and-pepper ring crackers) since 1940, the standing salty snack to walk with on the funicular ride to the Vomero.
Try: Taralli sugna e pepe
Tip: Taralli sold by the gram from the counter; a 200g bag runs 4 euros 50, perfect for the Vomero walk.
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Try: Sfogliatella riccia hot
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local-buy.
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza the screen-famous Sophia Loren order, the angioletti dough fritters with prosecco starter.
Try: Montanara fried pizza
Tip: Closed Monday lunch. Montanara from the takeaway window runs 4 euros; pair with angioletti at 5 euros.
Pignasecca Friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood fritti in paper cone) to the morning market crowd from the dozen friggitoria counters.
Try: Cuoppo di mare (paranza in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cuoppo di mare 5 to 8 euros; cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00.
Passione Napoletana on Via dei Tribunali in Naples runs the pizza al portafoglio (folded pocket pizza) window, the working-quarter street pizza eaten one-handed on the walk.
Try: Pizza al portafoglio (wallet pizza)
Tip: Pizza al portafoglio runs 2 euros at the window; the queue moves quickly because no plates are issued.
