€€€€BreweryOltrarno
Archea Brewery in Florence's Oltrarno is an independent craft pub on Via dei Serragli, leaning Italian and Tuscan on a rotating tap list that runs about.
OrderBlack Tower IPA, a Tuscan craft IPA from the rotating taps, a fresh take-home can sealed at the bar.
TipOpen daily from 18:00. The barman canners fresh take-home cans on request.
€€€€BrunchSanta Croce
Ditta Artigianale in Florence's Via dei Neri runs a weekend brunch programme alongside the roastery and cafe, with eggs benedict, avocado toast.
OrderAvocado toast, eggs benedict, a V60 filter coffee from the rotating origins.
TipWalk-in or book on the website. Specialty filter coffee from rotating origins; book seats by 11:30 on Sunday.
€€€€Wine barOltrarno
Le Volpi e l'Uva in Florence: a 12-seat wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio with the city's best small-grower Tuscan list and a counter of cheeses.
TipClosed Sunday. The 12-seat bar has no bookings; arrive at 17:30 for aperitivo seating.
€€€€BrunchSanta Maria Novella
Atrium Bar at Florence's Four Seasons runs a Sunday brunch buffet inside the 15th-century Palazzo della Gherardesca cloister, with a €95 all-you-can-eat.
OrderThe Sunday hotel buffet with garden seating, a Negroni from the bar.
TipSundays only; book a fortnight ahead. The 15th-century cloister courtyard seats 60 in summer.
€€€€Florentine, TuscanSant Ambrogio
Cibreo Trattoria in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio quarter is Fabio Picchi's no-pasta trattoria, the casual side of the Cibreo group. Located in Sant Ambrogio.
OrderPolpettine di pollo, pappa al pomodoro and the trippa alla fiorentina.
TipNo reservations and no pasta on the menu. Queue from 19:45 for the 20:00 first seating; lunch is the calmer service.
€€€€Coffee roasterSanta Croce
Ditta Artigianale in Florence is Francesco Sanapo's roastery and cafe, with single-origin filter coffees, Italy's first barista school and a roasting lab.
OrderA V60 filter from the rotating origins board, plus a brunch plate on weekends.
TipThree Florence rooms; Via dei Neri is the original. The Oltrarno corner runs cocktails later.
€€€€BrewerySan Frediano
Rione is San Frediano's brewpub, the only Florence pub brewing its own beer on the premises with visible fermentation tanks behind the bar, pouring.
OrderAn Il Bovaro pour straight from the tank, the house pilsner, a wood-fired pizza margherita.
TipLunch service 12:00-15:00; reopens 17:30. Brewing tours run by request through the website's prenota form.
€€€€Cocktail barCentro Storico
Locale Firenze in Florence's Centro Storico runs its cocktail bar until 02:00, with small plates from the Michelin kitchen, the Smoked Negroni.
OrderSmoked Negroni, small plate from the Michelin kitchen, a Spritz at the courtyard.
TipOpen daily 18:00-02:00. The cocktail menu changes seasonally.
€€€€ItalianSanta Maria Novella
Atrium Bar at Florence's Four Seasons keeps the cocktail-and-cloister programme running until midnight, with Edoardo Sandri's Negroni list and small plates.
OrderNegroni, the Italian aperitivo flight, an aperitivo plate of salumi and crostini.
TipOpen daily 11:00 to midnight. The 15th-century cloister courtyard seats 60 in summer.
€€€€BrunchSan Lorenzo
La Menagere in Florence's San Lorenzo runs an all-day breakfast-to-brunch programme inside a 19th-century housewares shop, with eggs, pastries and a weekend.
OrderWeekend egg and pastry brunch plate, cappuccino in the flower-shop room.
TipOpen daily 07:00 to midnight. Book the back dining room two days ahead for weekend brunch.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Priced at €€.
OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
TipCash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaSan Lorenzo
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Kitchen leans florentine trattoria.
OrderRibollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.
TipQueue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
€€€€ItalianSan Niccolo
Zeb in Florence's San Niccolo quarter runs the mother-and-son counter-seating format, a 16-seat L-shaped bar where Alberto Navari plates his mother.
OrderTortelli ricotta e spinaci to order, the daily pasta and any tagliata.
TipClosed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Priced at €€.
OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
TipCash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30.
€€€€Cocktail barCentro Storico
Manifattura in Florence's San Pancrazio square is the all-Italian-spirits cocktail bar open until 02:00 every night, with every bottle from an Italian.
OrderAll-Italian Negroni, the late-night espresso martini, an Italian amaro nightcap.
TipOpen 18:00-02:00 daily. The 30-seat counter books a fortnight ahead.
€€€€ItalianSan Niccolo
Zeb in Florence: A 16-seat mother-and-son counter in San Niccolo where Alberto Navari plates Giuseppina's tortelli to order; no booking, just queue.
TipClosed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
€€€€ItalianCentro Storico
I Due Fratellini in Florence: A hole-in-the-wall mini-panino counter from 1875 with 28 varieties at €4 and a shelf outside to hold your wine glass.
TipCash only; standing on the kerb. Closed Sunday. €4 panini, €4 wine.
€€€€BrunchSan Frediano
Santarosa Bistrot in Florence's San Frediano runs a garden brunch programme inside the Arno-side park, with a focaccia carte, eggs benedict and a Sunday.
OrderDaily focaccia with eggs, cappuccino in the park, an aperitivo spritz to finish.
TipWalk-in only on weekdays; weekend brunch books out by 11:30. The garden seats 80 in summer.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaCampo Di Marte
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening.
OrderThe Friday-night bistecca tasting if you can book; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaCampo Di Marte
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening.
OrderThe Friday-night bistecca tasting; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
€€€€Coffee roasterSant Ambrogio
Caffe Cibreo in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio roasts the house Cibreo blend served across the four restaurants, with a walnut-counter espresso bar and a retail.
OrderEspresso at the walnut bar, the Cibreo house blend bag, a daily Cibreo pastry.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The bar seats 12; arrive at 08:00 for a stool.
€€€€BrewerySan Lorenzo
Mostodolce in Florence's San Lorenzo is the brewpub-and-pizzeria for the Tuscan craft-beer scene, brewing eight house Tuscan-style lagers and ales since 2010.
OrderThe house IPA on tap, the Tuscan-style lager, a pizza margherita.
TipOpen daily 18:00-02:00; closed for August holidays. Pizza programme runs until 23:30.
€€€€Cocktail barOltrarno
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs its coffee-and-cocktail programme until midnight nightly, with espresso-martini riffs.
OrderEspresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a late-night Negroni Bianco.
TipOpen daily 08:00 to midnight. Cocktail programme runs from 19:00.
€€€€ItalianOltrarno
Trattoria Cammillo is locals send friends here for the crepes alla fiorentina and the masiero family's 1945 white-tablecloth grammar on borgo san jacopo.
TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
€€€€ItalianCampo Di Marte
Trattoria da Burde in Florence: italian room. Bus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca.
TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday.
€€€€Wine barSan Lorenzo
Casa del Vino is a Migliorini-family wine bar room in San Lorenzo: closed Sunday, mostly standing room, panini made to order, Tuscan wine by the glass.
TipClosed Sunday, and the early-week days shut mid-afternoon; expect to stand. A panino and a glass together come in under 10 euros.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
OrderFiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina.
OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
TipCash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
OrderThe fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30.
€€€€ItalianSanta Croce
Gilda Bistrot in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio district runs the small-room modern-bistrot format opposite the market, with seasonal Tuscan plates.
OrderPici al ragu, the crostini di fegatini and a glass of natural Chianti.
TipClosed Monday; book a fortnight ahead. The Sant'Ambrogio market across the square opens at 07:00.
€€€€Coffee roasterSan Lorenzo
La Menagere in Florence's San Lorenzo runs a specialty-coffee bar alongside the all-day concept, with V60, AeroPress and espresso pulled on a Mirage Veloce.
OrderV60 filter of the day, cappuccino with house blend, daily breakfast plate.
TipOpen 07:00 to midnight. Coffee programme runs all day; aperitivo from 18:30 also.
€€€€Coffee roasterCentro Storico
Caffe Gilli in Florence's Piazza della Repubblica is the city's oldest cafe (1733), with a house blend roasted under the Gilli label and a retail bean.
OrderEspresso at the counter, cappuccino, a retail bag of the Gilli house blend.
TipCounter price is €1.50 vs €5 at the terrace. Beans ship internationally.
€€€€Coffee roasterCentro Storico
Amble in Florence runs a specialty-coffee bar inside a Renaissance courtyard, with filter coffee on rotating origins, espresso pulled on a Slayer machine.
OrderV60 filter of the day, espresso, the daily focaccia.
TipClosed Monday. The courtyard seats 25; coffee ships vacuum-packed.
€€€€ItalianSan Lorenzo
Mercato Centrale food hall's first floor stays open until midnight daily, with 18 artisan counters running lampredotto, fresh pasta, pizza and an espresso.
OrderLampredotto from Lorenzo Nigro, the daily fresh pasta from il Tartufo, an espresso.
TipCounter format; €15 lunch with a glass of wine. Open daily 09:00 to midnight.
€€€€BrunchCentro Storico
Amble in Florence's centro storico, steps from Ponte Vecchio off Lungarno Acciaiuoli, runs an all-day breakfast and weekend brunch carte in a quiet piazzetta.
OrderThe breakfast tartine, sourdough toast with poached egg, V60 filter of the day.
TipClosed Monday. The seating is limited; weekend brunch fills by 12:30.
€€€€Florentine, Wine-ledCentro Storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused.
OrderPici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.
TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
€€€€ItalianSanta Croce
Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce.
OrderThe assaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, and any chocolate dessert from the sampler.
TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.
€€€€Florentine, Wine-ledCentro Storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused.
OrderPici cacio e pepe, the salumi tagliere and a Chianti Classico flight from the by-the-glass list.
TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight adds €25.
€€€€Florentine TrattoriaCentro Storico
Osteria del Porcellino in Florence sits a few steps from the Mercato del Porcellino loggia, with a wood-grill room and the bistecca, tagliata and Tuscan.
OrderTagliata di Chianina, pappardelle al cinghiale, the ribollita in winter.
TipOpen daily 12:00-23:00. The wood-grill room books out a week ahead for weekend dinner.
€€€€Coffee roasterCentro Storico
Rivoire in Florence's Piazza della Signoria has run its own espresso blend since 1872, with a roasting tradition for the house signature, hot chocolate.
OrderEspresso at the bar, the house blend retail bag, a Rivoire chocolate praline.
TipCounter price is half of table. The Rivoire blend ships internationally.