17 mid-range rooms in Florence, editor-picked. the comfortable everyday-good rooms in Florence — no surprise on the bill, real cooking. All Florence food.
Cibreo Trattoria ★ 4.6
sant-ambrogio · Via dei Macci 122r, 50122 Firenze
Cibreo Trattoria in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio quarter is Fabio Picchi's no-pasta trattoria, the casual side of the Cibreo group. The polpettine and the pappa al pomodoro run the menu since 1989.
Tip: No reservations and no pasta on the menu. Queue from 19:45 for the 20:00 first seating; lunch is the calmer service.
Trattoria Sostanza ★ 4.5
santa-maria-novella · Via del Porcellana, 25/r, 50123 Firenze
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.
Trattoria Mario ★ 4.5
san-lorenzo · Via Rosina 2r, 50123 Firenze
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Lunch only, no bookings, communal tables, cash only.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
Zeb ★ 4.5
san-niccolo · Via San Miniato 2r, 50125 Firenze
Zeb in Florence's San Niccolo quarter runs the mother-and-son counter-seating format, a 16-seat L-shaped bar where Alberto Navari plates his mother Giuseppina's tortelli to order.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
Trattoria Sostanza ★ 4.5
santa-maria-novella · Via del Porcellana, 25/r, 50123 Firenze
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30.
Trattoria da Burde ★ 4.4
campo-di-marte · Via Pistoiese 154, 50145 Firenze
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening service and a daily lunch carte for locals.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
Trattoria da Burde ★ 4.4
campo-di-marte · Via Pistoiese 154, 50145 Firenze
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening service and a daily lunch carte.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
I Quattro Leoni ★ 4.3
oltrarno · Via dei Vellutini 1r, 50125 Firenze
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
Trattoria Marione ★ 4.3
santa-maria-novella · Via della Spada 27, 50123 Firenze
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina povera and a chalkboard daily menu.
Tip: Cash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
I Quattro Leoni ★ 4.3
oltrarno · Via dei Vellutini 1r, 50125 Firenze
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30.
Gilda Bistrot ★ 4.3
santa-croce · Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 40r, 50122 Firenze
Gilda Bistrot in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio district runs the small-room modern-bistrot format opposite the market, with seasonal Tuscan plates and an all-organic wine list.
Tip: Closed Monday; book a fortnight ahead. The Sant'Ambrogio market across the square opens at 07:00.
Coquinarius ★ 4.2
centro-storico · Via delle Oche 11r, 50122 Firenze
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico and Brunello producers.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
Acqua al 2 ★ 4.2
santa-croce · Via della Vigna Vecchia 40r, 50122 Firenze
Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce, served until midnight every night.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.
Coquinarius ★ 4.2
centro-storico · Via delle Oche 11r, 50122 Firenze
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico producers.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight adds €25.
Osteria del Porcellino ★ 4.2
centro-storico · Via Val di Lamona 7r, 50123 Firenze
Osteria del Porcellino in Florence sits a few steps from the Mercato del Porcellino loggia, with a wood-grill room and the bistecca, tagliata and Tuscan offal-cuisine carte every day.
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 23:00. The wood-grill room books out a week ahead for weekend dinner.
Trattoria Za Za ★ 4.0
san-lorenzo · Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26r, 50123 Firenze
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's Mercato Centrale square has run the family trattoria since 1977, with a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace and the full Florentine carte from ribollita to bistecca.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. Book the terrace three days ahead for summer; lunch is the easier service.
Trattoria Za Za ★ 4.0
san-lorenzo · Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26r, 50123 Firenze
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's San Lorenzo runs the long Tuscan carte from a square-side terrace on Piazza del Mercato Centrale, with the full Florentine canon and a tasting tray on the menu.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. The terrace fills fastest in summer; book three days ahead.