Italian pizzeria€€2e
Le Vieux Panier in Marseille's 2e on the Place de Lenche is a wood-fired pizzeria with a small terrace looking down toward the Vieux Port and the MUCEM museum on the hill.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Italian pasta, Mediterranean plates
Order: Any of the wood-fired pizzas; the terrace at sunset is the second order.
Tip: Place de Lenche stairs descend straight to the old port; book the terrace for the view.
Tunisian halal€1er
Chez Yassine in Marseille's 1er Noailles has cooked Tunisian home plates since 2014, all-day service, no reservations, the brik with egg and the kefteji the cheap-and-fast lunch.
Signature: Brik with egg, Kefteji, Ojja, Tunisian couscous
Order: The brik with tuna and egg, and the ojja with merguez to share.
Tip: No reservations; expect a shared table and cash-friendly counter service.
Provencal brasserie€€2e
La Caravelle in Marseille's 2e hangs over the Vieux Port on the first floor of the Hotel Belle-Vue since the 1920s, a gathering place for artists with the most coveted balcony in the city.
Signature: Aioli, Daily fish, Aperitif tapas
Order: The aioli at lunch with a glass of pastis on the balcony.
Tip: Jazz concerts Wednesday and Friday October-May; book the balcony for sunset.
French brasserie€€6e
Le Cafe de la Banque in Marseille's 6e in the Estrangin former banking district is a Haussmann brasserie with a wide terrace running the day's specials.
Signature: Daily lunch special, Charcuterie board, Cheese plates
Order: The plat du jour at lunch, a charcuterie board at aperitif.
Tip: Open daily from breakfast through aperitif tapas to dinner; reservations for evening only.
Provencal bistro€€7e
Le Cafe de l'Abbaye in Marseille's 7e sits next to the Saint-Victor Abbey above the Vieux Port, a Provencal bistro with a single daily dish and a zinc-and-wood counter cut to market.
Signature: Plat du jour, Provencal tapas, Pastis aperitif
Order: Whatever the single plat du jour is at lunch; tapas at aperitif on the terrace.
Tip: Open Mon-Fri 9am-10:30pm, weekends from 3pm; closes mid-afternoon between services.
Vegetarian canteen€6e
Mikala in Marseille's 6e on Cours Julien is a fully vegan canteen (formerly Le Cours en Vert), organic produce from the market across the street and a daily menu of seven or eight vegetable plates.
Signature: Composed salads, Vegan plates, Gluten-free bowls
Order: The composed plate of the day with the market vegetables.
Tip: Walk-up at lunch, reservation taken for evenings; lunch and dinner Tue-Sat.