La Mercerie in Marseille's 1er opened in 2018 from the Paris Popup trio Harry Cummins, Laura Vidal and Julia Mitton, a market-driven bistronomic tasting menu in a stripped concrete room.
Must order: The set tasting; the kitchen reads as a tighter Septime cousin south of Paris.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the terrace seats are the prize on warm nights.
Address: 9 Cours Saint-Louis, 13001 Marseille
Tuba Club in Marseille's 8e is a fisherman-cabanon kitchen in the Goudes village, 80 seats on a rock terrace above the Mediterranean, Sicilian and Provencal grills the spine of the menu.
Order: The grilled fish of the day; the cabanon kitchen runs simple and salt-driven.
Tip: Reach by bus 19 from Rond-Point du Prado or taxi; reservations open six weeks ahead.
L'Arome in Marseille's 6e on Notre-Dame du Mont opened in 2012, Chef Romain's Bib Gourmand kitchen turning out a short Provencal-Mediterranean menu at lunch and dinner.
Order: The three-course set at EUR 28 for the lunch value play.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday lunch; the small room fills early.
AM par Alexandre Mazzia in Marseille's 8e holds three Michelin stars on a 24-seat counter set, the kitchen built around fish, smoke and African-Mediterranean spicing.
Order: The set tasting only, around 40 to 50 small plates served in successive waves over a long evening.
Tip: Book the moment the calendar opens online, around three months ahead.
Le Petit Nice Passedat in Marseille's 7e holds three Michelin stars on the Anse de Maldorme cove, the Passedat family on this rock since 1917 and Gerald in command since the 1980s.
Order: The Ma Bouille Abaisse, Gerald Passedat's three-service reading of the city's canonical dish.
Tip: Lunch is the easier seating than dinner; the cove view alone justifies the lead time.
Une Table au Sud in Marseille's 2e holds a Michelin star above the Vieux Port quay, Ludovic Turac at the pass since 2010 with a Provencal-Mediterranean tasting menu.
Order: The lunch tasting at EUR 95 for the best value reading of the kitchen.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; book a window seat over the Quai du Port.
Sepia in Marseille's 7e perches on Puget Hill above the harbour, Paul Langlere cooking instinctive Mediterranean plates with smoked mackerel, bottarga and shrimp broth threading through.
Order: The tasting at dinner; the kitchen is at its most expressive across courses.
Tip: The Puget Hill terrace is the second reason to book; ask for a sea-side table.
