The Maghrebi belly of Marseille around the daily Marche des Capucins. Tunisian and Algerian counters, halal butchers and spice shops on Rue d'Aubagne.
Noailles is the Maghrebi belly of Marseille, wrapped around the daily Marche des Capucins. Tunisian and Algerian counters, halal butchers and spice shops pack Rue d'Aubagne, and the market sets the neighbourhood's pulse. It is the city's most intense food quarter per square metre.
La Mercerie in Marseille's 1er opened in 2018 from the Paris Popup trio Harry Cummins, Laura Vidal and Julia Mitton, a stripped-concrete room.
OrderThe set tasting; the kitchen reads as a tighter Septime cousin south of Paris.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday; book the terrace on Cours Saint-Louis for warm nights.
La Boite a Sardine in Marseille's 1er is half fishmonger, half restaurant, walls papered with sardine tins and the catch of the day plated to the order.
OrderThe anemone fritters and whatever red mullet comes off the morning landing.
TipOpen Tue-Sat lunch only, Thursday and Friday evenings; reservation strongly advised.
Le Femina in Marseille's 1er Noailles has cooked Algerian Berber couscous since 1921, the same family carrying it across generations, the barley semolina.
OrderThe Berber couscous with lamb on barley semolina; the kitchen turns the dish all day.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday; reservation strongly recommended.
La Kahena in Marseille's 1er near the Vieux Port has cooked Tunisian halal cuisine since 1978, mosaics and portraits of beys on the walls, the couscous.
OrderThe mixed couscous and the brick with tuna and egg as a starter.
TipOpen daily, book for weekend lunch when the room fills with families.
Le Bouchon Provencal in Marseille's 1er on Place aux Huiles is a bistro of Provencal and Lyonnais lineage, two vaulted dining rooms and a lime-tree terrace.
OrderThe daube provencale and a glass of the house red on the terrace.
TipOpen Mon-Sat; the upper vaulted room is the spot on cold nights.
Epicerie L'Ideal in Marseille's 1er Noailles is Julia Sammut's general-store-gone-gourmet, a counter lunch built each morning from the shop's deli.
OrderWhatever the daily counter plate is; the deli shelves are the second reason to come.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Chez Sauveur in Marseille's 1er Noailles has cooked Sicilian-rooted Marseillais pizza since 1943 founded by Sauveur Di Paola, taken over in 2023 by a young.
OrderThe Pizza Speciale with mozzarella di bufala, cherry tomatoes and pistou.
TipOpen Tue-Sat lunch and dinner; closed Sunday and Monday Walk-ins usually OK.
Chez Yassine in Marseille's 1er Noailles has cooked Tunisian home plates since 2014, all-day service, no reservations, the brik with egg and the kefteji.
OrderThe brik with tuna and egg, and the ojja with merguez to share.
TipNo reservations; expect a shared table and cash-friendly counter service.
Le Capucin in Marseille's 1er runs the brasserie ground floor of the Mercure Canebiere Vieux Port, chef Noel Baudrand cooking Mediterranean plates sublimated.
OrderThe daily fish off the cart at lunch with a glass of Bandol white.
TipOpen daily for lunch and dinner; sunny terrace, family-friendly, ECOTABLE-labelled.
Guided tour · 2 hours
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