French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 11:45-22:30, bookings only
La Ch'tite Brigitte on Rue des Bouchers in Lille is Clément Richevaux's estaminet, built on the northern dishes his grandmother Brigitte cooked.
Signature: Croque-monsieur au maroilles, Rollmops
Order: The maroilles croque-monsieur, or the mixed northern platter.
Tip: The room takes bookings only, and it spreads across two shopfronts on Rue des Bouchers.
French regional€€Saint-MichelTue-Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop at weekends; closed Monday
Le Chat qui Fume on Rue Henri Kolb in Lille is a neighbourhood estaminet doing carbonade, andouillette in beer and a maroilles potato gratin.
Signature: Gratin de pommes de terre au maroilles, Welsh complet
Order: The full welsh, made in house rather than assembled.
Tip: Book by phone. The kitchen does not take reservations by email.
French regionalChef Florent Ladeyn€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00
Bierbuik is Florent Ladeyn's brewpub on Rue Royale in Lille, wood-fired Flemish street food downstairs and the Bloemeke estaminet menu upstairs.
Signature: Frites sauce maroilles, Flamiche
Order: Frites with maroilles sauce, from the ground-floor brewpub counter.
Tip: The upstairs Bloemeke runs a three-course estaminet menu at 30 euros. Beers use Mont des Cats hops.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed 18:30-22:30; Thu 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Fri 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-16:00 and 21:00-23:30; Sun 12:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30
Chez Raoul on Rue de Gand in Lille is named for the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde, an estaminet of chicken in maroilles, fricadelle and charcuterie boards.
Signature: Gratin de chicons, Welsh au maroilles
Order: Gratin de chicons, endives baked in ham and béchamel.
Tip: Closed Monday and Wednesday lunch. Saturday runs a long afternoon service then reopens late.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-15:00 and 19:00-22:30; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00
Au Soyeux on Rue de Gand in Lille runs 44 covers of ch'ti cooking, potjevleesch and carbonade with maroilles croquettes and roasted bone marrow.
Signature: Potjevleesch, Croquettes au maroilles
Order: Potjevleesch, the jellied terrine of four white meats.
Tip: Only 24 seats indoors plus a 20-seat terrace, so book for a weekend evening.
French regional€€GambettaMon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:30-23:00; closed Sunday
La Ducasse has anchored the corner of Rue Solférino in Lille since 1979, an estaminet of welsh, carbonade flamande and andouillette casseroles.
Signature: Welsh, Carbonade flamande
Order: The welsh, cheddar melted flat under the grill.
Tip: The estaminet has kept the same regional card since 1979, cooked from fresh local produce.