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SyrianOutremont
Damas brought high-end Syrian cooking to Outremont, Montreal, plating charcoal kebabs, muhammara and cherry-sauced meatballs in a jewel-box room.
OrderThe cherry kebab and a spread of cold mezze to start.
TipOrder family style and share widely; the mezze are the reason to come.
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BistroMile End
Larrys is the all-day Mile End cafe and wine bar from the Lawrence team, an easy Montreal spot for pastries by morning and small plates with wine by night.
OrderThe daily snacks off the chalkboard with a glass of something natural.
TipNo dinner reservations; come early evening or wait it out with a glass at the bar.
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ArgentineVerdun
Beba is the Schor brothers' warm Verdun restaurant in Montreal, cooking Argentine plates through a Spanish and Italian lens on a quiet residential corner.
OrderThe grilled provoleta and whatever pasta is running that night.
TipVerdun feels far but the metro is close; book ahead, the small room fills nightly.
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FrenchPlateau
L'Express is the Paris-style bistro on Saint-Denis, a Michelin-recommended classic feeding Montreal tartare, marrow and cornichons past midnight since 1980.
OrderThe steak tartare cut to order, with a jar of cornichons.
TipIt runs late daily; a solo seat at the zinc bar is the easiest table in the city.
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French bistroPlateau
Au Pied de Cochon is Martin Picard's temple of Quebecois excess on Avenue Duluth in Montreal, home of foie gras poutine and the theatrical duck in a can.
OrderFoie gras poutine and the canard en conserve.
TipPortions are enormous and rich; come hungry and plan to share every dish.
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ContemporaryLittle Burgundy
Vin Papillon is the Joe Beef group's vegetable-forward wine bar in Little Burgundy, Montreal, turning charred produce and natural wine into a walk-in classic.
OrderThe rotating grilled and roasted vegetable plates.
TipWalk-in only; put your name down early and drink a glass next door while you wait.
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ItalianGriffintown
Nora Gray is Emma Cardarelli's dim, clubby southern-Italian room on Saint-Jacques in Montreal, pouring amaro over hand-cut pasta and a cult wine list.
OrderThe pasta of the night and a negroni to start.
TipThe bar seats are first-come and the easiest way in on a busy weekend.
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ItalianSaint Henri
Elena is the Nora Gray team's sunny coffee, pizza and wine room in Saint-Henri, Montreal, spinning sourdough pizza and Italian small plates off Notre-Dame.
OrderA blistered sourdough pizza and a spritz.
TipDaytime is coffee and pastries; the pizza and wine crowd arrives after five.
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ContemporaryLittle Italy
Marconi is Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly's inventive bistro near Little Italy in Montreal, plating clever, short-menu seasonal cooking off Avenue Mozart.
OrderWhatever the two-line menu is doing with the day's produce.
TipThe menu changes constantly and is short; ask the room what to order and trust it.
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BistroDowntown
Cadet is a Bib Gourmand bar and bistro on the Main in downtown Montreal, matching a smart natural wine list with sharp, snacky plates until late.
OrderThe tartare and whatever seafood snack is on the board.
TipThe bar takes walk-ins and stays lively late; it is a strong pre or post-show stop.
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BistroVilleray
Casavant is a warm Bib Gourmand bistro near the Jean-Talon Market in Villeray, Montreal, pairing convivial French-Quebecois plates with a lively natural list.
OrderThe daily plats and a bottle from the growers' list.
TipIt is a genuine neighbourhood room; book midweek and settle in for the night.
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SyrianVilleray
Le Petit Alep is the beloved Syrian-Armenian bistro by the Jean-Talon Market in Montreal, a Bib Gourmand pouring Lebanese wine over warm mezze.
OrderMuhammara, sujuk and the garlicky grilled meats.
TipThe casual Petit Alep next to formal Alep is the one you want; it takes no reservations.
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ContemporaryDowntown
Bouillon Bilk is a minimalist, high-end dining room on the Main in downtown Montreal, plating precise, inventive cooking by the Quartier des Spectacles.
OrderThe tasting menu, or the pasta and fish plates a la carte.
TipIt sits by the theatres; book the pre-show seating, then linger over dessert once the crowd clears.
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SeafoodPlateau
Le Filet is Bouillon Bilk's seafood-focused sibling facing the mountain in Montreal, a dim, sultry room turning out delicate fish plates meant for sharing.
OrderThe oyster and crudo plates, then whichever whole fish is running.
TipPortions are tapas-sized; order broadly across the menu rather than one main each.
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ItalianLittle Italy
Impasto is the rustic Italian room on Rue Dante in Montreal's Little Italy, cooking market-driven pasta and salumi a short walk from the Jean-Talon Market.
OrderThe house-made pasta of the day and a plate of salumi.
TipLunch is quieter and cheaper; the same kitchen, fewer crowds than dinner.
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ItalianVilleray
Moccione is a tiny, charming Italian trattoria on Saint-Denis in Villeray, Montreal, hand-rolling pasta and pouring Italian wine in a snug neighbourhood room.
OrderThe cacio e pepe or whichever pasta is fresh that night.
TipIt seats barely thirty; book ahead or aim for an early weeknight table.
$$$$
ContemporaryHochelaga
Helicoptere is a chef-owned favourite at the gateway to Hochelaga in Montreal, sending out inventive, wine-friendly small plates in a relaxed corner room.
OrderThe snacks and share plates with a natural bottle.
TipHochelaga is an easy metro ride east; the room is casual and worth the trip.
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JapaneseDowntown
Kazu is the tiny, roaring Japanese counter on Sainte-Catherine in downtown Montreal, famous for its 48-hour pork, salmon bowls and long sidewalk queue.
OrderThe 48-hour pork and the salmon and tuna bowl.
TipExpect a line and cash-friendly bowls; go at opening or off-peak to skip the wait.
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ContemporaryGriffintown
Foxy is the Olive et Gourmando team's wood-fired Griffintown restaurant in Montreal, cooking vegetables, fish and flatbreads over open flame on Notre-Dame.
OrderThe wood-grilled vegetables and a charred flatbread.
TipThe open kitchen and its fire are the show; ask for a counter seat facing the grill.
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ItalianOld Montreal
Le Serpent is a sleek Italian-leaning bistro in a converted foundry in Old Montreal, plating confident pasta and grilled mains near the Fonderie Darling.
OrderA plate of pasta and whatever is grilled over coals.
TipThe concrete room is loud and fun; book the early seating for a slightly calmer meal.
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PortugueseDowntown
Ferreira Cafe is the polished Portuguese institution on Rue Peel in downtown Montreal, grilling whole fish and pouring deep Portuguese wine since 1996.
OrderGrilled whole fish and the salt cod, with a glass of Douro red.
TipThe fixed-price lunch is the value move; dinner is a splurge worth booking ahead.
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ContemporarySaint Henri
Tuck Shop is a snug, no-sign neighbourhood restaurant in Saint-Henri, Montreal, cooking a short, market-driven menu of pasta, fish and Quebec produce.
OrderWhatever pasta or fish is on the short handwritten menu.
TipThere is no sign and few tables; book ahead and trust the room to steer you through the short menu.