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ItalianVilleray
Moccione is a tiny, charming Italian trattoria on Saint-Denis in Villeray, Montreal, hand-rolling pasta and pouring Italian wine in a snug neighbourhood room.
OrderThe cacio e pepe or whichever pasta is fresh that night.
TipIt seats barely thirty; book ahead or aim for an early weeknight table.
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ContemporaryHochelaga
Helicoptere is a chef-owned favourite at the gateway to Hochelaga in Montreal, sending out inventive, wine-friendly small plates in a relaxed corner room.
OrderThe snacks and share plates with a natural bottle.
TipHochelaga is an easy metro ride east; the room is casual and worth the trip.
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JapaneseDowntown
Kazu is the tiny, roaring Japanese counter on Sainte-Catherine in downtown Montreal, famous for its 48-hour pork, salmon bowls and long sidewalk queue.
OrderThe 48-hour pork and the salmon and tuna bowl.
TipExpect a line and cash-friendly bowls; go at opening or off-peak to skip the wait.
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ContemporaryGriffintown
Foxy is the Olive et Gourmando team's wood-fired Griffintown restaurant in Montreal, cooking vegetables, fish and flatbreads over open flame on Notre-Dame.
OrderThe wood-grilled vegetables and a charred flatbread.
TipThe open kitchen and its fire are the show; ask for a counter seat facing the grill.
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ItalianOld Montreal
Le Serpent is a sleek Italian-leaning bistro in a converted foundry in Old Montreal, plating confident pasta and grilled mains near the Fonderie Darling.
OrderA plate of pasta and whatever is grilled over coals.
TipThe concrete room is loud and fun; book the early seating for a slightly calmer meal.
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PortugueseDowntown
Ferreira Cafe is the polished Portuguese institution on Rue Peel in downtown Montreal, grilling whole fish and pouring deep Portuguese wine since 1996.
OrderGrilled whole fish and the salt cod, with a glass of Douro red.
TipThe fixed-price lunch is the value move; dinner is a splurge worth booking ahead.