Seafood$$$plateauTue-Sat 17:30-22:00
Le Filet is Bouillon Bilk's seafood-focused sibling facing the mountain in Montreal, a dim, sultry room turning out delicate fish plates meant for sharing.
Order: The oyster and crudo plates, then whichever whole fish is running.
Tip: Portions are tapas-sized; order broadly across the menu rather than one main each.
Italian$$$little-italyTue-Sat 11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:00
Impasto is the rustic Italian room on Rue Dante in Montreal's Little Italy, cooking market-driven pasta and salumi a short walk from the Jean-Talon Market.
Order: The house-made pasta of the day and a plate of salumi.
Tip: Lunch is quieter and cheaper; the same kitchen, fewer crowds than dinner.
Italian$$villerayWed-Sun 17:00-22:30
Moccione is a tiny, charming Italian trattoria on Saint-Denis in Villeray, Montreal, hand-rolling pasta and pouring Italian wine in a snug neighbourhood room.
Order: The cacio e pepe or whichever pasta is fresh that night.
Tip: It seats barely thirty; book ahead or aim for an early weeknight table.
Contemporary$$$hochelagaWed-Sat 18:00-22:00
Helicoptere is a chef-owned favourite at the gateway to Hochelaga in Montreal, sending out inventive, wine-friendly small plates in a relaxed corner room.
Order: The snacks and share plates with a natural bottle.
Tip: Hochelaga is an easy metro ride east; the room is casual and worth the trip.
Japanese$$downtownThu-Sun 17:00-21:30
Kazu is the tiny, roaring Japanese counter on Sainte-Catherine in downtown Montreal, famous for its 48-hour pork, salmon bowls and long sidewalk queue.
Order: The 48-hour pork and the salmon and tuna bowl.
Tip: Expect a line and cash-friendly bowls; go at opening or off-peak to skip the wait.
Contemporary$$$griffintownMon-Sun 17:30-23:00
Foxy is the Olive et Gourmando team's wood-fired Griffintown restaurant in Montreal, cooking vegetables, fish and flatbreads over open flame on Notre-Dame.
Order: The wood-grilled vegetables and a charred flatbread.
Tip: The open kitchen and its fire are the show; ask for a counter seat facing the grill.