Montreal bagel ★ 4.9
The Montreal bagel is smaller, denser and sweeter than its New York cousin, hand-rolled, boiled in honey water and baked in a wood-fired oven until blistered.
Where: St-Viateur Bagel, Fairmount Bagel
Price: $1.50-3 each
The plates that define Montreal: what they are, and where to eat the canonical version.
The plates that define Montreal. what they are, where they came from, and where to eat the canonical version.
The Montreal bagel is smaller, denser and sweeter than its New York cousin, hand-rolled, boiled in honey water and baked in a wood-fired oven until blistered.
Where: St-Viateur Bagel, Fairmount Bagel
Price: $1.50-3 each
Montreal smoked meat is beef brisket cured with a peppery spice blend, smoked, steamed until tender and hand-sliced onto rye with yellow mustard.
Where: Schwartz's Deli, Lester's Deli, Wilensky's Light Lunch
Price: $12-18 a sandwich
Poutine is Quebec's beloved plate of fries topped with fresh cheese curds and hot brown gravy, the curds warmed just enough to squeak while the gravy binds.
Where: La Banquise, Au Pied de Cochon, Chalet BBQ
Price: $9-16
Montreal's Portuguese charcoal chicken is butterflied, marinated and grilled over hot coals, then basted in garlicky piri-piri, a Portuguese-community legacy.
Where: Ma Poule Mouillee, Romados, Chalet BBQ
Price: $10-18
Tourtiere is Quebec's spiced meat pie, a double-crust pastry filled with minced pork seasoned with cinnamon, clove and allspice, served at Christmas.
Price: $12-20
Tarte au sucre is Quebec's sugar pie, a shallow pastry shell filled with brown or maple sugar, cream and butter baked into a soft, fudgy filling.
Where: Premiere Moisson
Price: $4-7 a slice
Pouding chomeur, or unemployed man's pudding, is a Quebec Depression-era dessert of simple cake batter baked under a hot layer of maple or brown-sugar syrup.
Price: $5-9
Cretons is a Quebecois pork spread, minced pork slow-cooked with onion, milk and warm spices then chilled into a coarse, savoury pate eaten on toast.
Price: $4-8
Pate chinois is Quebec's shepherd's pie, three neat layers of seasoned ground beef, cream-style corn and mashed potato baked until the top browns.
Price: $10-15
A BeaverTail is a hand-stretched, tail-shaped fried dough pastry dusted with cinnamon sugar or piled with toppings, a Canadian winter treat sold at markets.
Price: $7-12
Soupe aux pois is Quebec's yellow split pea soup, simmered with salt pork, onion and herbs into a thick, smoky bowl of sugar-shack and winter tables.
Price: $6-10
The Montreal bagel is smaller, denser and sweeter than its New York cousin, hand-rolled, boiled in honey water and baked in a wood-fired oven until blistered.
History: Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe brought the bagel to Montreal in the early 1900s, and the city's version set itself apart by the 1950s. Fairmount Bagel dates to 1919 and St-Viateur to 1957, both in Mile End, both still firing wood ovens around the clock. The honey in the boiling water and the wood smoke give the Montreal bagel its sweeter, denser character.
Where to try it: St-Viateur Bagel, Fairmount Bagel
Watch out for: Gluten, Sesame
Montreal smoked meat is beef brisket cured with a peppery spice blend, smoked, steamed until tender and hand-sliced onto rye with yellow mustard.
History: Brought by Romanian and Eastern European Jewish immigrants, smoked meat became a Montreal institution through delis like Schwartz's, which opened on Boulevard Saint-Laurent in 1928. Unlike pastrami, Montreal smoked meat uses more black pepper and less sugar in the cure. It is still cured for about a week, smoked, then steamed and carved by hand to order.
Where to try it: Schwartz's Deli, Lester's Deli, Wilensky's Light Lunch
Watch out for: Gluten, Mustard
Poutine is Quebec's beloved plate of fries topped with fresh cheese curds and hot brown gravy, the curds warmed just enough to squeak while the gravy binds.
History: Poutine emerged in rural Quebec in the late 1950s, with several Centre-du-Quebec towns claiming its invention. It spread to Montreal's late-night diners and by the 2000s had become a national symbol. La Banquise on Rue Rachel turned it into an art form with dozens of loaded versions, though purists still argue for the classic three-ingredient plate.
Where to try it: La Banquise, Au Pied de Cochon, Chalet BBQ
Watch out for: Milk, Gluten
Montreal's Portuguese charcoal chicken is butterflied, marinated and grilled over hot coals, then basted in garlicky piri-piri, a Portuguese-community legacy.
History: Portuguese immigrants settled around the Plateau and Saint-Louis from the 1950s, bringing charcoal-grilled frango and piri-piri sauce. Rotisseries like Romados and Ma Poule Mouillee near Rue Rachel turned churrasco chicken into a Montreal staple, served with fries, rice and hot sauce to long weekend lines.
Where to try it: Ma Poule Mouillee, Romados, Chalet BBQ
Tourtiere is Quebec's spiced meat pie, a double-crust pastry filled with minced pork seasoned with cinnamon, clove and allspice, served at Christmas.
History: Tourtiere dates to New France and takes its name from the tourtiere baking dish. Recipes vary by region: the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean version is a deep pie of cubed meats and potato, while the Montreal-area version is a shallower minced-pork pie. It remains the centrepiece of the Quebecois Christmas Eve reveillon table.
Watch out for: Gluten
Tarte au sucre is Quebec's sugar pie, a shallow pastry shell filled with brown or maple sugar, cream and butter baked into a soft, fudgy filling.
History: Sugar pie grew out of Quebec's maple and sugar-beet traditions, a thrifty dessert built from pantry staples. It appears on cabane a sucre tables in spring and holiday spreads in winter, and bakeries like Premiere Moisson keep it in the case year-round. Maple-sugar versions are prized above brown-sugar ones.
Where to try it: Premiere Moisson
Watch out for: Gluten, Milk, Egg
Pouding chomeur, or unemployed man's pudding, is a Quebec Depression-era dessert of simple cake batter baked under a hot layer of maple or brown-sugar syrup.
History: Pouding chomeur was created in Quebec during the 1930s Depression, using cheap pantry ingredients and cheap syrup. Legend credits female factory workers in Montreal. The dish endures as comfort food, with high-end kitchens like Au Pied de Cochon serving lavish maple versions alongside the humble home-style original.
Watch out for: Gluten, Milk, Egg
Cretons is a Quebecois pork spread, minced pork slow-cooked with onion, milk and warm spices then chilled into a coarse, savoury pate eaten on toast.
History: Cretons arrived with early French settlers as a way to use every part of the pig through the winter. It became a fixture of the Quebec breakfast table, spread thick on toast beside eggs and often served with mustard. Nearly every family and deli keeps its own spice ratio. Today it turns up in Montreal delis, cabane a sucre spreads and supermarket tubs alike, a humble breakfast staple that has outlasted far fancier dishes.
Pate chinois is Quebec's shepherd's pie, three neat layers of seasoned ground beef, cream-style corn and mashed potato baked until the top browns.
History: Pate chinois likely dates to the late 1800s, with folklore tying its name to Chinese railway-camp cooks feeding workers cheap beef, corn and potato. Whatever the origin, it became a defining Quebecois comfort dish, its steak-ble-d-inde-patates layering known to every household in the province. It remains a true weeknight comfort food across Quebec, as likely to appear in a Montreal home kitchen as on a diner menu, endlessly debated over ketchup versus none.
Watch out for: Milk
A BeaverTail is a hand-stretched, tail-shaped fried dough pastry dusted with cinnamon sugar or piled with toppings, a Canadian winter treat sold at markets.
History: The BeaverTail was trademarked in Ottawa in 1978 but the fried whole-wheat dough draws on older settler recipes. It became a cold-weather ritual across Quebec and Canada, eaten hot off outdoor stands during winter festivals, most famously topped with cinnamon sugar and lemon. In Montreal you find them at winter festivals, the Old Port and market stands, fried to order and eaten hot with cinnamon sugar as fingers go numb in the cold.
Watch out for: Gluten, Milk
Soupe aux pois is Quebec's yellow split pea soup, simmered with salt pork, onion and herbs into a thick, smoky bowl of sugar-shack and winter tables.
History: Yellow pea soup goes back to New France, when dried peas and salt pork were winter staples that kept for months. It became so identified with the province that Quebecers were once nicknamed pea-soupers. It remains a fixture of the cabane a sucre menu each spring. In Montreal it still turns up on cabane a sucre menus and in home kitchens through the winter, a cheap, warming bowl tied tightly to the province's identity.
Montreal's signature dishes include Montreal bagel, Montreal smoked meat, Poutine, Portuguese charcoal chicken, Tourtiere. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.