Contemporary$$$hochelagaWed-Sat 18:00-22:00
Helicoptere is a chef-owned favourite at the gateway to Hochelaga in Montreal, sending out inventive, wine-friendly small plates in a relaxed corner room.
Order: The snacks and share plates with a natural bottle.
Tip: Hochelaga is an easy metro ride east; the room is casual and worth the trip.
Japanese$$downtownThu-Sun 17:00-21:30
Kazu is the tiny, roaring Japanese counter on Sainte-Catherine in downtown Montreal, famous for its 48-hour pork, salmon bowls and long sidewalk queue.
Order: The 48-hour pork and the salmon and tuna bowl.
Tip: Expect a line and cash-friendly bowls; go at opening or off-peak to skip the wait.
Contemporary$$$griffintownMon-Sun 17:30-23:00
Foxy is the Olive et Gourmando team's wood-fired Griffintown restaurant in Montreal, cooking vegetables, fish and flatbreads over open flame on Notre-Dame.
Order: The wood-grilled vegetables and a charred flatbread.
Tip: The open kitchen and its fire are the show; ask for a counter seat facing the grill.
Italian$$$old-montrealTue-Sat 17:30-22:30
Le Serpent is a sleek Italian-leaning bistro in a converted foundry in Old Montreal, plating confident pasta and grilled mains near the Fonderie Darling.
Order: A plate of pasta and whatever is grilled over coals.
Tip: The concrete room is loud and fun; book the early seating for a slightly calmer meal.
Portuguese$$$$downtownMon-Fri 11:45-14:00, 17:30-21:30; Sat 17:30-22:00
Ferreira Cafe is the polished Portuguese institution on Rue Peel in downtown Montreal, grilling whole fish and pouring deep Portuguese wine since 1996.
Order: Grilled whole fish and the salt cod, with a glass of Douro red.
Tip: The fixed-price lunch is the value move; dinner is a splurge worth booking ahead.
Contemporary$$$saint-henriTue-Sat 17:00-23:00
Tuck Shop is a snug, no-sign neighbourhood restaurant in Saint-Henri, Montreal, cooking a short, market-driven menu of pasta, fish and Quebec produce.
Order: Whatever pasta or fish is on the short handwritten menu.
Tip: There is no sign and few tables; book ahead and trust the room to steer you through the short menu.