French$$plateauMon-Sun 11:30-01:00
L'Express is the Paris-style bistro on Saint-Denis, a Michelin-recommended classic feeding Montreal tartare, marrow and cornichons past midnight since 1980.
Signature: Steak tartare, Bone marrow
Order: The steak tartare cut to order, with a jar of cornichons.
Tip: It runs late daily; a solo seat at the zinc bar is the easiest table in the city.
French bistro$$$plateauWed-Sun 17:00-24:00
Au Pied de Cochon is Martin Picard's temple of Quebecois excess on Avenue Duluth in Montreal, home of foie gras poutine and the theatrical duck in a can.
Signature: Foie gras poutine, Duck in a can
Order: Foie gras poutine and the canard en conserve.
Tip: Portions are enormous and rich; come hungry and plan to share every dish.
Contemporary$$$little-burgundyTue-Sat 15:00-24:00
Vin Papillon is the Joe Beef group's vegetable-forward wine bar in Little Burgundy, Montreal, turning charred produce and natural wine into a walk-in classic.
Order: The rotating grilled and roasted vegetable plates.
Tip: Walk-in only; put your name down early and drink a glass next door while you wait.
Italian$$$griffintownTue-Sat 17:00-23:00
Nora Gray is Emma Cardarelli's dim, clubby southern-Italian room on Saint-Jacques in Montreal, pouring amaro over hand-cut pasta and a cult wine list.
Order: The pasta of the night and a negroni to start.
Tip: The bar seats are first-come and the easiest way in on a busy weekend.
Italian$$saint-henriMon-Sat 17:00-23:00
Elena is the Nora Gray team's sunny coffee, pizza and wine room in Saint-Henri, Montreal, spinning sourdough pizza and Italian small plates off Notre-Dame.
Order: A blistered sourdough pizza and a spritz.
Tip: Daytime is coffee and pastries; the pizza and wine crowd arrives after five.
Contemporary$$$little-italyWed-Sun 17:00-23:00
Marconi is Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly's inventive bistro near Little Italy in Montreal, plating clever, short-menu seasonal cooking off Avenue Mozart.
Order: Whatever the two-line menu is doing with the day's produce.
Tip: The menu changes constantly and is short; ask the room what to order and trust it.