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ArgentineVerdun
Beba is the Schor brothers' warm Verdun restaurant in Montreal, cooking Argentine plates through a Spanish and Italian lens on a quiet residential corner.
OrderThe grilled provoleta and whatever pasta is running that night.
TipVerdun feels far but the metro is close; book ahead, the small room fills nightly.
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FrenchPlateau
L'Express is the Paris-style bistro on Saint-Denis, a Michelin-recommended classic feeding Montreal tartare, marrow and cornichons past midnight since 1980.
OrderThe steak tartare cut to order, with a jar of cornichons.
TipIt runs late daily; a solo seat at the zinc bar is the easiest table in the city.
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French bistroPlateau
Au Pied de Cochon is Martin Picard's temple of Quebecois excess on Avenue Duluth in Montreal, home of foie gras poutine and the theatrical duck in a can.
OrderFoie gras poutine and the canard en conserve.
TipPortions are enormous and rich; come hungry and plan to share every dish.
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ContemporaryLittle Burgundy
Vin Papillon is the Joe Beef group's vegetable-forward wine bar in Little Burgundy, Montreal, turning charred produce and natural wine into a walk-in classic.
OrderThe rotating grilled and roasted vegetable plates.
TipWalk-in only; put your name down early and drink a glass next door while you wait.
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ItalianGriffintown
Nora Gray is Emma Cardarelli's dim, clubby southern-Italian room on Saint-Jacques in Montreal, pouring amaro over hand-cut pasta and a cult wine list.
OrderThe pasta of the night and a negroni to start.
TipThe bar seats are first-come and the easiest way in on a busy weekend.
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ItalianSaint Henri
Elena is the Nora Gray team's sunny coffee, pizza and wine room in Saint-Henri, Montreal, spinning sourdough pizza and Italian small plates off Notre-Dame.
OrderA blistered sourdough pizza and a spritz.
TipDaytime is coffee and pastries; the pizza and wine crowd arrives after five.