A cone of crisp nori wrapped around warm rice and a single seafood topping. LA's six-seat counter rooms reset the format around 2015 and the city now leads the country.

The handroll counter, a six-to-twelve seat omakase-style room serving exclusively temaki (handrolls) in sequence over 30 minutes, was popularised in LA by KazuNori on South Main downtown, opened by the Sushi Nozawa Group (the Sugarfish team behind chef Kazunori Nozawa) in 2014. The format was built around the principle that a temaki must hit the customer within 30 seconds of being made, before the nori loses its snap. The format reached New York and Tokyo via LA. The defining handrolls are blue crab, scallop, yellowtail and toro, served in a fixed sequence with one rice ratio. The whole meal lasts about 30 minutes.

4 editor picks for Sushi handroll in Los Angeles, ranked by editorial score. All Los Angeles signature dishes · Sushi handroll across every city.