Tabletop grilling of marinated short rib (galbi) and pork belly in Koreatown. The LA cut of galbi, sliced thin across the bone, was perfected here in the 1980s.

The LA galbi cut, beef short rib sliced across the bone 1cm thick so each piece holds three bones in cross-section, was a butcher innovation that started in Koreatown in the 1970s and 80s. Korean butchers wanted a quick-grill format that suited the tabletop charcoal grills imported with the first wave of post-1965 Korean immigrants. The thin cross-cut format spread back to Korea and is now standard. The Koreatown grill room emerged as a category at the same time: Park's BBQ since 2003, Quarters since the 1990s, Chosun Galbee since 1989. The marinade, soy, pear, garlic and sugar, soaks 4 to 6 hours and the rib hits the grill for under three minutes a side.

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