Mexican cooking in Houston spans regional fine dining, Oaxacan tradition and street-corner taquerias. Xochi on Walker Street downtown focuses on Oaxacan cooking and moles, while Hugo's on Westheimer Road in Montrose offers a broad interior-Mexican menu. Eight Row Flint on Yale Street in the Heights pairs tacos with an icehouse format, and Tacos Tierra Caliente on West Alabama Street keeps the taco-truck tradition close at hand.
$$$$Oaxacan MexicanDowntown
Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan room on the ground floor of the Marriott Marquis downtown, with seven moles, masa-based tlayudas and a James Beard.
OrderThe mole negro tasting; seven moles in one flight is the menu's defining gesture.
TipSit at the masa bar to watch the corn pressed fresh. The lunch tasting is the value at $48.
$$$$Regional MexicanMontrose
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season. Located in Montrose.
OrderThe cochinita pibil. The chiles en nogada when it hits the menu in August and September.
TipSunday brunch buffet is the city standard. Reserve the noon slot; it sells out by Tuesday.
$$$$MexicanThe Heights
Eight Row Flint in Houston is the Heights icehouse from Agricole Hospitality in a converted Citgo gas station on Yale Street, with brisket tacos.
OrderBrisket tacos, the frozen-tied-with-Topo-Chico margarita, queso fundido.
TipThe patio under the old gas station canopy is the seat. East End second location for a different crowd.
$$$$Regional MexicanMontrose
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, a James Beard winner with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season.
OrderCochinita pibil. The Sunday brunch buffet. Tableside hot chocolate.
TipSunday brunch books two weeks out. Lunch on weekdays is the easier slot.
$$$$Mexican
Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan dining room at the Marriott Marquis downtown, a James Beard winner with seven moles, a tasting menu and a masa bar.
OrderMole tasting flight. The chichilo (one of the harder moles). House-made tlayuda.
TipLunch tasting at $48 is the value entry. Sit at the masa bar to watch the corn ground fresh.
$$$$Mexican
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season. Book 2 weeks ahead.
OrderCochinita pibil. Chiles en nogada when in season (August to September). Tableside hot chocolate.
TipSunday brunch buffet is the city standard. Reserve the noon slot; it sells out by Tuesday.
$$$$Mexican
Tacos Tierra Caliente in Houston is the West Alabama taco truck open until 10pm in Montrose, with al pastor from the trompo and an ice house next door.
OrderTacos al pastor
TipThree al pastor with pineapple and a consomme. The West Alabama Ice House next door is open later for beers.
$$$$Mexican
Tacos Tierra Caliente in Houston is the West Alabama Montrose taco truck, with al pastor from a real trompo and an after-hours chef-crowd reputation.
OrderThree al pastor with pineapple. Carne asada with consomme.
TipLate at night the line moves fast; the al pastor trompo is still spinning at midnight. Bring tacos into the ice house.
$$$$Mexican
Tacos Tierra Caliente in Houston is the West Alabama Montrose taco truck, with $3-4 tacos al pastor sliced off the trompo and the West Alabama Ice House next.
OrderTacos al pastor
TipThree al pastor with pineapple is the canonical order, under $12. Take them into the ice house for a Lone Star.