Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan room on the ground floor of the Marriott Marquis downtown, with seven moles, masa-based tlayudas and a James Beard chef behind it all.
Signature dishes: Mole negro, Tlayuda
Must order: The mole negro tasting; seven moles in one flight is the menu's defining gesture.
Tip: Sit at the masa bar to watch the corn pressed fresh. The lunch tasting is the value at $48.
Address: 1777 Walker St, Houston, TX 77010
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season and a chocolate-from-the-stone tableside service.
Signature: Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada (in season)
Order: The cochinita pibil. The chiles en nogada when it hits the menu in August and September.
Tip: Sunday brunch buffet is the city standard. Reserve the noon slot; it sells out by Tuesday.
Uchi Houston is the Montrose outpost of Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning sushi house, on Westheimer since 2012, with a hama chili and untraditional Japanese plates by the bar.
Signature: Hama chili, Maguro sashimi and goat cheese
Order: Hama chili and the maguro sashimi with goat cheese, both signatures from the Austin original.
Tip: Sit at the sushi bar, never the dining room, and order omakase off-menu. Sushi happy hour 5 to 6:30 is the city's best deal.
Da Marco in Houston is Marco Wiles's Italian dining room on Westheimer since 2002, with hand-rolled pastas, a salt-baked branzino and Houston's most serious Italian wine list.
Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Branzino al sale
Order: Whatever pasta is on the daily blackboard. The salt-baked branzino if available.
Tip: Sit upstairs in the smaller dining room. The downstairs window seats are the loudest in the house.
Nancy's Hustle in Houston is the EaDo bistro on Polk Street since 2017, with the much-copied Nancy Cakes cornbread, a strong natural-wine list and a counter open until 11pm.
Signature: Nancy Cakes (cornbread), Burger
Order: Nancy Cakes (cornbread with bottarga butter) and the burger. The pasta of the day is always good.
Tip: Bar seats are first-come; the dining room takes reservations. Sunday burger night still draws a line.
The Original Ninfa's on Navigation in Houston is Ninfa Laurenzo's 1973 Tex-Mex room, the birthplace of the restaurant fajita, still serving skirt steak tacos al carbon and Ninfaritas.
Signature: Fajitas (tacos al carbon), Ninfaritas
Order: The fajitas (tacos al carbon) for two. A Ninfarita on the rocks first.
Tip: Sit on the back patio under the strings of lights. The front room is loud and the bar takes 90 minutes to clear at 7pm.
Brennan's of Houston is the 1967 Texas Creole dining room on Smith Street from the New Orleans Brennan family, with turtle soup, bananas Foster tableside and Sunday jazz brunch.
Signature: Turtle soup, Bananas Foster tableside
Order: Turtle soup with sherry on the side. Bananas Foster, flambeed tableside, to close.
Tip: Sunday jazz brunch at 10am or noon books fast. Request the courtyard if the weather holds.
