Japanese Sushi$$$$montrose
Uchi Houston is the Montrose outpost of Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning sushi house, on Westheimer since 2012, with a hama chili and untraditional Japanese.
Signature: Hama chili, Maguro sashimi and goat cheese
Order: Hama chili and the maguro sashimi with goat cheese, both signatures from the Austin original.
Tip: Sit at the sushi bar, never the dining room, and order omakase off-menu. Sushi happy hour 5 to 6:30 is the city's best deal.
Italian$$$montrose
Da Marco in Houston is Marco Wiles's Italian dining room on Westheimer since 2002, with hand-rolled pastas, a salt-baked branzino and Houston's most serious.
Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Branzino al sale
Order: Whatever pasta is on the daily blackboard. The salt-baked branzino if available.
Tip: Sit upstairs in the smaller dining room. The downstairs window seats are the loudest in the house.
New American Bistro$$eado
Nancy's Hustle in Houston is the EaDo bistro on Polk Street since 2017, with the much-copied Nancy Cakes cornbread, a strong natural-wine list and a counter.
Signature: Nancy Cakes (cornbread), Burger
Order: Nancy Cakes (cornbread with bottarga butter) and the burger. The pasta of the day is always good.
Tip: Bar seats are first-come; the dining room takes reservations. Sunday burger night still draws a line.
Tex-mex$$east-end
The Original Ninfa's on Navigation in Houston is Ninfa Laurenzo's 1973 Tex-Mex room, the birthplace of the restaurant fajita, still serving skirt steak tacos.
Signature: Fajitas (tacos al carbon), Ninfaritas
Order: The fajitas (tacos al carbon) for two. A Ninfarita on the rocks first.
Tip: Sit on the back patio under the strings of lights. The front room is loud and the bar takes 90 minutes to clear at 7pm.
Cajun & Creole$$$montrose
Brennan's of Houston is the 1967 Texas Creole dining room on Smith Street from the New Orleans Brennan family, with turtle soup, bananas Foster tableside.
Signature: Turtle soup, Bananas Foster tableside
Order: Turtle soup with sherry on the side. Bananas Foster, flambeed tableside, to close.
Tip: Sunday jazz brunch at 10am or noon books fast.
Steakhouse$$$river-oaks
State of Grace in Houston is Ford Fry's River Oaks dining room on Westheimer Road, a Southern-and-steakhouse menu in a glossy room with limewashed brick.
Signature: Wagyu steak, Oysters on the half-shell
Order: A dozen Gulf oysters and the wagyu strip. The wood-grilled fish of the day on a Friday.
Tip: The bar serves the full menu and is the quickest seat at peak. Sunday brunch is the local routine.