CuisineBritish gastropub
Price£££
Neighbourhoodclerkenwell

Signature dishes: Whole roast game, Sunday roast

Must order: Whole roast partridge or grouse in season, or the family-style Sunday roast in winter.

Tip: Lunch and pre-theatre runs walk-in friendly. Sunday roast books a fortnight ahead through their site.

Location

Address: 49 Chiswell Street, London EC1Y 4SA

Also in clerkenwell

The Eagle ★ 4.4

Gastropub££clerkenwell

Britain's first gastropub on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 1991 by Mike Belben and David Eyre, still serves Mediterranean-leaning daily-changing food at the bar.

Signature: Bife Ana steak sandwich, Whatever is on the chalkboard

Order: The Bife Ana steak sandwich, on the menu since 1991, and a pint of bitter.

Tip: Walk-in only. The chalkboard menu rewrites every day at 12:00; the best dishes go by 14:00 on a busy lunch.

Full clerkenwell food guide →

More casual dining in London

Gunpowder Spitalfields ★ 4.6

Indian small plates££shoreditch-spitalfields

Harneet Baweja's family-recipe Indian small-plates kitchen on White's Row in Spitalfields London, opened 2015, plates regional Indian home cooking, no buffet, no naan basket.

Signature: Spicy venison doughnut, Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder

Order: Spicy venison doughnut, then Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder for two.

Tip: Tiny room. Bookings open six weeks ahead and burn fast. Counter seats released as walk-ins from 17:30.

Wright Brothers Borough ★ 4.4

Seafood££borough

Robin Hancock and Ben Wright's seafood counter on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2002, runs a daily-fresh oyster menu and a serious fish pie.

Signature: Native oysters, Fish pie

Order: Half a dozen West Mersea or Lindisfarne native oysters, then the fish pie with mashed potato top.

Tip: Counter seats face the bar. Lunch runs walk-in; Saturday at noon is the un-touristed slot before market crowds peak.

Spring ★ 4.5

Modern European£££covent-garden

Skye Gyngell's Modern European dining room inside the New Wing of Somerset House in central London, opened 2014, runs vegetable-led seasonal cooking and a Scratch dinner program.

Signature: Whatever spring vegetable course is on, Brown butter custard tart

Order: Whatever the spring or autumn vegetable opener is, and the brown butter custard tart for pudding.

Tip: The Scratch dinner uses kitchen offcuts to fight food waste and costs £25; the regular menu runs £55 for two courses.

Lemonia ★ 4.2

Greek taverna££camden-primrose-hill

The Evangelou family's Primrose Hill Greek taverna on Regent's Park Road in London, opened 1979, still the village's Sunday-lunch destination for lamb kleftiko in a packed dining room.

Signature: Lamb kleftiko, Saganaki

Order: Lamb kleftiko (slow-cooked in paper for three hours), with saganaki to start.

Tip: Sunday lunch books two weeks ahead through their site. Tuesday-Thursday dinner walks in any time after 19:00.

The Eagle ★ 4.4

Gastropub££clerkenwell

Britain's first gastropub on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 1991 by Mike Belben and David Eyre, still serves Mediterranean-leaning daily-changing food at the bar.

Signature: Bife Ana steak sandwich, Whatever is on the chalkboard

Order: The Bife Ana steak sandwich, on the menu since 1991, and a pint of bitter.

Tip: Walk-in only. The chalkboard menu rewrites every day at 12:00; the best dishes go by 14:00 on a busy lunch.

Blacklock Soho ★ 4.6

British chophouse££soho

Gordon Ker's basement chophouse on Great Windmill Street in Soho London, opened 2015, runs charcoal-grilled chops in a 1850s-era basement room, the cheap-and-loud Sunday roast destination.

Signature: Lamb chops, Pre-theatre skinny chops

Order: The all-in chops board with beef, lamb and pork, plus the bone-marrow gravy.

Tip: Sunday roast is £20 and books two weeks ahead through Resy. Pre-theatre chops at 17:00 walks in for half-price.

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