Basque Grill£££shoreditchMon closed, Tue-Sun 12:00-22:30
Tomos Parry's Basque-fired wood-grill room above the Smoking Goat in Shoreditch London, opened 2018 and the whole-turbot benchmark for the city.
Signature: Whole grilled turbot, Smoked potatoes
Order: Whole turbot for two off the wood, with smoked potatoes and grilled lettuce.
Tip: Bookings open thirty days ahead at 10:00 and burn fast. Walk-up bar seats are released on the day from 11:00.
Modern British£££shoreditchMon-Tue closed, Wed-Sat 18:00-22:00, Sun closed
Taz Sarhane's one-Michelin-starred tasting-menu room inside the Blue Mountain School in Shoreditch London, opened 2022, runs a 90% British menu cooked.
Signature: Whole roasted fish over open fire, Foraged-herb tasting course
Order: Whatever Cornish day-boat fish is cooked over flame, and the foraged-herb course that anchors the tasting.
Tip: One tasting menu per service; book six weeks ahead. The wine pairing leans natural and biodynamic UK growers.
Modern British££££shoreditchMon-Wed 18:30-23:00, Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-23:00, Sun closed
Isaac McHale's tasting-menu kitchen inside Shoreditch Town Hall in London, opened 2013, kept its Michelin star and a place on the World's 50 Best list.
Signature: Buttermilk fried chicken, Wood-fired raw scallop
Order: Whatever the seasonal seafood opener is, and the buttermilk fried chicken canape that started the room.
Tip: Counter seats face the kitchen pass directly. Book the bar for an a la carte run if the tasting menu is full.
Thai££sohoMon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Ben Chapman's wood-fired Northern Thai counter in Soho London, opened 2016, sits in front of an open grill that turns out skewers and clay-pot noodles.
Signature: Clay pot baked glass noodles with brown crab, Cured pork skewers
Order: Clay pot baked glass noodles with brown crab, plus a skewer of aged Tamworth cured pork.
Tip: Counter seats are walk-in only after 17:30. Lunch tables behind the counter take bookings two weeks ahead.
Taiwanese££sohoMon-Thu 12:00-15:00 and 17:30-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 12:00-17:00
Erchen Chang and Shing Tat Chung's original Bao counter on Lexington Street Soho in London, opened 2015, the bao that put Taiwanese food on every restaurant.
Signature: Classic bao, Fried Horlicks ice cream
Order: Classic pork bao with peanut and fermented greens, plus the fried Horlicks ice cream to finish.
Tip: Walk-up only. Put your name down on the chalkboard outside; the queue moves in 20 to 40 minutes from open.
Modern British£££shoreditchMon-Sun 12:00-15:00, Wed-Sat 18:00-19:45
Margot Henderson's daily-changing British canteen inside a converted bike shed off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch London, open since 2004 for lunch.
Signature: Crispy lamb sweetbreads, Custard tart
Order: Whatever offal opener is on the chalkboard, then the custard tart for pudding.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat for lunch and Thu-Sat dinner only. No music, no menu printed; the writeup is on the wall.