St John ★ 4.8
Fergus Henderson's St John in Clerkenwell has cooked the nose-to-tail British canon in London since 1994. Priced at £££. Kitchen leans modern british.
OrderRoast bone marrow with parsley salad and toast, then Eccles cake with Lancashire.
TipThe bakery counter near the front sells the same Eccles cakes, doughnuts and brown loaf to take away if you can't get a booking.



