The rooms worth a reservation in Valencia, from neighbourhood bistros to the new classics.
The restaurants worth the trip in Valencia. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Casa Carmela on the Malvarrosa beachfront in Valencia has cooked wood-fired paellas to order since 1922, with a 20-strong rice repertoire and a lunch-only beachfront kitchen.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Esgarraet
Order: The paella valenciana cooked over orange-wood embers, ordered when you book.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead for weekend lunch. Lunch only Tue to Sat 13:00 to 16:00; no dinner.
La Pepica on Passeig de Neptu in Valencia's Malvarrosa beach has served paella since 1898; Hemingway, Queen Sofia and Orson Welles all ate the rice here.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Arroz del senyoret
Order: The paella valenciana with rabbit, chicken and ferraura beans at lunch, with a half-bottle of Utiel-Requena bobal.
Tip: Book the beachfront terrace one week ahead. Closed Sunday evenings. Hemingway's signed photograph hangs in the inner dining room.
Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record in Valencian rice.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Croquetas
Order: The paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.
Tip: Closed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.
La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas on the carte.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.
Llisa Negra on Carrer de Pasqual i Genis in Valencia is Quique Dacosta's product-driven fire-only kitchen, with no gas stoves and every dish cooked over wood and embers.
Signature: Arroz seco, Pescado a la brasa, Carnes a la brasa
Order: The seasonal fish from the Valencia fish market grilled over olive wood, plus the arroz seco.
Tip: Reserve through the website at least 10 days ahead for dinner. The Krug embassy table seats four for the prestige tasting.
Casa Montana on Carrer de Josep Benlliure in Valencia's Cabanyal fishing quarter has poured wine from oak barrels and served tapas since 1836, with a 1,500-bottle wine cellar.
Signature: Esgarraet, Anchoas del Cantabrico, Atun en aceite
Order: The esgarraet (salt-cod with roasted red peppers) and a glass of Utiel-Requena bobal from the barrel.
Tip: Reserve ahead, especially for weekends. Closed Sunday. The wine list runs deep into local Valencian small producers.
Central Bar inside the Mercado Central in Valencia is Ricard Camarena's market-counter project, serving bocadillos and tapas built from the market stalls metres away.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Carrillera iberica, Croquetas
Order: The bocadillo de calamares with squid from the market fishmongers, plus a vermut from the barrel.
Tip: Open during market hours, Mon to Sat 07:30 to 15:00. Stand at the counter or grab one of the few stools.
Canalla Bistro on Carrer del Mestre Josep Serrano in Valencia's Russafa is Ricard Camarena's casual urban project, a globe-trotting bistro across Asian, Latin and Mediterranean.
Signature: Bao buns, Tartar, Coca crujiente
Order: The bao bun with iberico pork and the tartar tasted with a Bobal red from the carte.
Tip: Russafa side of the city; book a week ahead for weekend nights. Tasting menu and a la carte both work.
Habitual on the lower level of Mercado de Colon in Valencia is Ricard Camarena's market food-hall project, a sit-down bistro inside the 1916 modernista market.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Caldo de ternera, Arroces
Order: The arroz of the day plus a glass of natural wine; the bocadillo de calamares for a lighter lunch.
Tip: Walk down the stairs at Mercado Colon to find it. Open daily, longer hours than the upstairs market itself.
La Pilareta on Carrer del Moro Zeit in Valencia's Carmen quarter has run a counter-tile bar since 1917, famous across the city for its clochinas (small native mussels).
Signature: Clochinas, Esgarraet, Anchoas
Order: A platter of clochinas with lemon, salt and pepper, and a cana of Estrella Galicia.
Tip: Cash preferred. The clochinas season runs roughly May to September; out of season ask for mussels (mejillones).
Tasca Angel on Carrer de la Purissima in Valencia's Mercat quarter has grilled sardinas a la plancha to order at the counter since 1946, on a charcoal grill metres away.
Signature: Sardinas a la plancha, Anchoas, Atun
Order: Half a dozen grilled sardines off the plancha with a cana, plus the anchoas.
Tip: Open lunchtime only (12:00 to 16:00); arrive before 13:30 to find a seat. Closed Sunday.
Bodeguilla del Gato in Valencia's Carmen quarter is a corner tapas bar with a wide carte of tapas and bocadillos, a wood-bar counter and a small terrace on a quiet plaza.
Signature: Bombas, Patatas bravas, Tapas surtidas
Order: The bomba (a fried potato-and-meat ball) with the spicy and the alioli sauces; a glass of vermut from the tap.
Tip: Tiny dining room; come early for lunch (before 13:30) or be ready to wait. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Navarro on Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a long-running family rice kitchen, with a tiled dining room and a strong arroz al horno tradition.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Fideua
Order: The arroz al horno with chickpeas, blood sausage and pork, ordered as a half portion for two.
Tip: Reserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The menu del dia at lunch is one of the best in the centre.
Goya Gallery on Carrer de Borrull in Valencia's Eixample is a modern Spanish dining room with a strong tapas-and-arroz carte, a gallery-art interior and a tight wine list.
Signature: Croquetas, Steak tartar, Arroz
Order: The croquetas of jamon iberico, then the arroz meloso or the steak tartar with a glass of Mistela.
Tip: Reserve in advance for weekend dinners; the room fills with locals from L'Eixample. Lunch menu is good value.
Saiti on Carrer de Reina Dona Maria in Valencia's Eixample is chef Vicente Patino's modern Valencian room with two Repsol Suns, anchored on Mediterranean produce and short tastings.
Signature: Tasting menu, Arroz, Pescados
Order: The shorter tasting menu at lunch is the best-value introduction to the kitchen.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The tasting runs about two hours; book through the website or call.
El Encuentro on Carrer de Sant Vicent Martir in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a neighbourhood arroceria with a strong local following, eight rice variations and a daily menu del dia.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana for two with the canonical rabbit and chicken, ordered ahead.
Tip: Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday. Reserve weekend lunch a few days ahead.
Kaymus on Avinguda de Maestro Rodrigo in Valencia is chef Nacho Romero's modern Valencian kitchen, with a strong arroz carte, a Mediterranean tasting menu and a serious wine list.
Signature: Arroz, Bacalao, Croquetas
Order: The tasting menu at lunch (around 45 euros), with the chef's choice of arroz that day.
Tip: Reserve through the website. Lunch tasting is excellent value; dinner is the full experience.
Askua on Carrer del Felip Maria Garin in Valencia is a Basque-style grill founded 1994 by Ricardo Gadea, with rotating local-fish specials, chuleton from old dairy cows and a Bunol tomato carte.
Signature: Chuleton, Pescados a la brasa, Tomate de Bunol
Order: The chuleton (old-cow rib-eye) sliced at the table, with a tomato of Bunol salad on the side.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Reserve 10 days ahead. The fish-and-chuleton menu changes daily on a small chalkboard.
Fierro on Carrer del Doctor Serrano in Valencia's Russafa is Argentine chefs Carito Lourenco and German Carrizo's open-kitchen tasting room, with a counter for 16 diners and one menu.
Signature: Tasting menu, Steak, Empanadas
Order: The full tasting menu; there is no a la carte. Add the wine pairing of Spanish-Argentine wines.
Tip: Reserve through the website four weeks ahead. Two seatings per night, dress smart casual.
El Rall on Carrer dels Tundidors in Valencia's old town has cooked paellas to order in a tiled medieval-corner dining room since 1980, with one of the wider arroz cartes in the centre.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Fideua, Arroz negro
Order: The paella valenciana for two cooked over wood, or the fideua a banda with seafood.
Tip: Reserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The dining room is small but has an outdoor terrace in good weather.
El Tap on Carrer de Roteros in Valencia's Carmen quarter is a chef-driven modern Valencian bistro with daily tasting menus and a strong arroz turn.
Signature: Tasting menu, Arroz, Croquetas
Order: The shorter tasting menu (around 38 euros at lunch) with the day's rice.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Reserve a few days ahead for weekend lunch.
Vuelve Carolina on Carrer del Correus in Valencia's centre is Quique Dacosta's modern tapas room near the town hall, with a long carte of tapas, arroces and a youthful bar.
Signature: Tapas modernas, Croquetas, Arroz
Order: The croquetas of jamon iberico and the steak tartar; a glass of natural Valencia white.
Tip: Reserve through the website; the room fills with lunchtime office crowds and evening tourists. Good vermut hour.
Casa Mundo on Carrer de Don Joan d'Austria near central Valencia is a 1953 institution founded by Valencia CF top scorer Edmundo 'Mundo' Suarez, famous for tapas and its bocadillo de calamares.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Tapas valencianas, Vermut
Order: The bocadillo de calamares with a cana or vermut from the barrel.
Tip: Reserve ahead for weekends. Now in the third generation; the dining room doubles as a small Valencia CF and Mundo memorabilia museum.