Mediterranean€€leixample
Habitual on the lower level of Mercado de Colon in Valencia is Ricard Camarena's market food-hall project, a sit-down bistro inside the 1916 modernista market.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Caldo de ternera, Arroces
Order: The arroz of the day plus a glass of natural wine; the bocadillo de calamares for a lighter lunch.
Tip: Walk down the stairs at Mercado Colon to find it. Open daily, longer hours than the upstairs market itself.
Valencian tapas€el-carmen
La Pilareta on Carrer del Moro Zeit in Valencia's Carmen quarter has run a counter-tile bar since 1917, famous across the city for its clochinas (small native mussels).
Signature: Clochinas, Esgarraet, Anchoas
Order: A platter of clochinas with lemon, salt and pepper, and a cana of Estrella Galicia.
Tip: Cash preferred. The clochinas season runs roughly May to September; out of season ask for mussels (mejillones).
Valencian tapas€ciutat-vella
Tasca Angel on Carrer de la Purissima in Valencia's Mercat quarter has grilled sardinas a la plancha to order at the counter since 1946, on a charcoal grill metres away.
Signature: Sardinas a la plancha, Anchoas, Atun
Order: Half a dozen grilled sardines off the plancha with a cana, plus the anchoas.
Tip: Open lunchtime only (12:00 to 16:00); arrive before 13:30 to find a seat. Closed Sunday.
Valencian tapas€el-carmen
Bodeguilla del Gato in Valencia's Carmen quarter is a corner tapas bar with a wide carte of tapas and bocadillos, a wood-bar counter and a small terrace on a quiet plaza.
Signature: Bombas, Patatas bravas, Tapas surtidas
Order: The bomba (a fried potato-and-meat ball) with the spicy and the alioli sauces; a glass of vermut from the tap.
Tip: Tiny dining room; come early for lunch (before 13:30) or be ready to wait. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Valencian rice€€ciutat-vella
Navarro on Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a long-running family rice kitchen, with a tiled dining room and a strong arroz al horno tradition.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Fideua
Order: The arroz al horno with chickpeas, blood sausage and pork, ordered as a half portion for two.
Tip: Reserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The menu del dia at lunch is one of the best in the centre.
Modern Spanish€€leixample
Goya Gallery on Carrer de Borrull in Valencia's Eixample is a modern Spanish dining room with a strong tapas-and-arroz carte, a gallery-art interior and a tight wine list.
Signature: Croquetas, Steak tartar, Arroz
Order: The croquetas of jamon iberico, then the arroz meloso or the steak tartar with a glass of Mistela.
Tip: Reserve in advance for weekend dinners; the room fills with locals from L'Eixample. Lunch menu is good value.