Valencian rice€€€la-malvarrosa
La Pepica on Passeig de Neptu in Valencia's Malvarrosa beach has served paella since 1898; Hemingway, Queen Sofia and Orson Welles all ate the rice here.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Arroz del senyoret
Order: The paella valenciana with rabbit, chicken and ferraura beans at lunch, with a half-bottle of Utiel-Requena bobal.
Tip: Book the beachfront terrace one week ahead. Closed Sunday evenings. Hemingway's signed photograph hangs in the inner dining room.
Valencian rice€€leixample
Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record in Valencian rice.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Croquetas
Order: The paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.
Tip: Closed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.
Valencian rice€€ciutat-vella
La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas on the carte.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.
Spanish product fire€€€sant-francesc
Llisa Negra on Carrer de Pasqual i Genis in Valencia is Quique Dacosta's product-driven fire-only kitchen, with no gas stoves and every dish cooked over wood and embers.
Signature: Arroz seco, Pescado a la brasa, Carnes a la brasa
Order: The seasonal fish from the Valencia fish market grilled over olive wood, plus the arroz seco.
Tip: Reserve through the website at least 10 days ahead for dinner. The Krug embassy table seats four for the prestige tasting.
Valencian tapas€€el-cabanyal
Casa Montana on Carrer de Josep Benlliure in Valencia's Cabanyal fishing quarter has poured wine from oak barrels and served tapas since 1836, with a 1,500-bottle wine cellar.
Signature: Esgarraet, Anchoas del Cantabrico, Atun en aceite
Order: The esgarraet (salt-cod with roasted red peppers) and a glass of Utiel-Requena bobal from the barrel.
Tip: Reserve ahead, especially for weekends. Closed Sunday. The wine list runs deep into local Valencian small producers.
Market tapas€€ciutat-vella
Central Bar inside the Mercado Central in Valencia is Ricard Camarena's market-counter project, serving bocadillos and tapas built from the market stalls metres away.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Carrillera iberica, Croquetas
Order: The bocadillo de calamares with squid from the market fishmongers, plus a vermut from the barrel.
Tip: Open during market hours, Mon to Sat 07:30 to 15:00. Stand at the counter or grab one of the few stools.