Valencian tapas€ciutat-vella
Tasca Angel on Carrer de la Purissima in Valencia's Mercat quarter has grilled sardinas a la plancha to order at the counter since 1946, on a charcoal grill metres away.
Signature: Sardinas a la plancha, Anchoas, Atun
Order: Half a dozen grilled sardines off the plancha with a cana, plus the anchoas.
Tip: Open lunchtime only (12:00 to 16:00); arrive before 13:30 to find a seat. Closed Sunday.
Valencian tapas€el-carmen
Bodeguilla del Gato in Valencia's Carmen quarter is a corner tapas bar with a wide carte of tapas and bocadillos, a wood-bar counter and a small terrace on a quiet plaza.
Signature: Bombas, Patatas bravas, Tapas surtidas
Order: The bomba (a fried potato-and-meat ball) with the spicy and the alioli sauces; a glass of vermut from the tap.
Tip: Tiny dining room; come early for lunch (before 13:30) or be ready to wait. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Valencian rice€€ciutat-vella
Navarro on Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a long-running family rice kitchen, with a tiled dining room and a strong arroz al horno tradition.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Fideua
Order: The arroz al horno with chickpeas, blood sausage and pork, ordered as a half portion for two.
Tip: Reserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The menu del dia at lunch is one of the best in the centre.
Modern Spanish€€leixample
Goya Gallery on Carrer de Borrull in Valencia's Eixample is a modern Spanish dining room with a strong tapas-and-arroz carte, a gallery-art interior and a tight wine list.
Signature: Croquetas, Steak tartar, Arroz
Order: The croquetas of jamon iberico, then the arroz meloso or the steak tartar with a glass of Mistela.
Tip: Reserve in advance for weekend dinners; the room fills with locals from L'Eixample. Lunch menu is good value.
Modern Valencian€€€leixample
Saiti on Carrer de Reina Dona Maria in Valencia's Eixample is chef Vicente Patino's modern Valencian room with two Repsol Suns, anchored on Mediterranean produce and short tastings.
Signature: Tasting menu, Arroz, Pescados
Order: The shorter tasting menu at lunch is the best-value introduction to the kitchen.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The tasting runs about two hours; book through the website or call.
Valencian rice€€ciutat-vella
El Encuentro on Carrer de Sant Vicent Martir in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a neighbourhood arroceria with a strong local following, eight rice variations and a daily menu del dia.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana for two with the canonical rabbit and chicken, ordered ahead.
Tip: Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday. Reserve weekend lunch a few days ahead.