Patatas bravas is Spain's most-ordered tapa and Madrid's version (with a smoked-paprika and cayenne sauce, no tomato base, no aioli) defines the canonical brava: thick-cut fried potatoes with a spicy red sauce.
Patatas bravas may have originated at Casa Pellico in Madrid's Lavapies in the 1950s, with the smoked-paprika and cayenne sauce that gave the dish its name. The Madrid version (no tomato in the sauce, no aioli) differs from the Barcelona variant (with tomato, often with aioli on top). The dish became canonical across Spanish tabernas in the 1970s. Estado Puro by Paco Roncero serves a deconstructed version with airy potato spheres; Sala de Despiece serves a butcher-counter version with bone marrow. The classic Madrid version is at Casa Toni, El Doble and any Mahou taberna where a racion of bravas costs 6 to 8 euros and the salsa brava arrives in a separate ramekin.
Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid's Centro is the old-Madrid taberna for the offal canon: callos, oreja, mollejas and zarajos served from the formica counter.
OrderOreja a la plancha (6 euros), callos a la madrilena (8 euros) and a cana. A glass of vermut to start.
TipWalk-in only; the bar fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred; the formica counter has no card terminal until 2024.
Enjoy incredible local tapas and a fun, informative, private or shared walking tour of Madrid’s historic city center. Discover how the city’s food and history go together.
Get immersed in Spanish food culture with a hands-on cooking class led by local chefs. Choose between a paella class with a market visit in the morning or a tapas clas...