French fine dining€€SantosTue-Sat 17:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon
Insaciavel (French fine dining) in Lisbon: Tuesday-Saturday from 17:00 only. Closed Sunday and Monday. The Setubal oysters disappear by 20:00 on a busy night.
Why locals love it: A French-owned neighborhood natural-wine room on Rua da Esperanca pouring small Portuguese growers, with Setubal oysters and Azores limpets locals keep to themselves.
Tip: Tuesday-Saturday from 17:00 only. Closed Sunday and Monday. The Setubal oysters disappear by 20:00 on a busy night.
Portuguese€€GracaMon-Thu 16:00-23:00, Fri 16:00-01:00, Sat 15:00-01:00, Sun 15:00-23:00
Oitava Colina taproom Graca is a hilltop graca taproom on a quiet street, ten portuguese craft beers in a room with three tables, opens 17:00.
Why locals love it: A hilltop Graca taproom on a quiet street, ten Portuguese craft beers in a room with three tables, opens 17:00.
Tip: Walk up from Tram 28's Graca stop. Stay for a flight of all ten taps.
Bakery€€chiadoDaily 10:00-20:00
Pastelaria Alcoa is the canonical alcobaca convent-sweets shop, with cornucopias and pao de lo most lisbon visitors miss because everyone goes to belem first.
Why locals love it: The canonical Alcobaca convent-sweets shop, with cornucopias and pao de lo most Lisbon visitors miss because everyone goes to Belem first.
Tip: Try the cornucopia, not the pastel de nata. It is the local secret.
Japanese€€BaixaTue-Thu 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:00, Sat 12:30-15:00, 19:00-22:00, closed Sun-Mon
Tasca Kome is a traditional japanese kitchen on rua da madalena run by a japanese team, no fusion gimmicks, lunch zukedon as good as anywhere in lisbon.
Why locals love it: A traditional Japanese kitchen on Rua da Madalena run by a Japanese team, no fusion gimmicks, lunch zukedon as good as anywhere in Lisbon.
Tip: Book salmon zukedon for lunch. Closed Mondays and most of August.
Wine bar€€alfamaTue-Wed 12:00-24:00, Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 19:30-24:00, closed Monday
Damas in Graca is a bakery-bar-bistro hybrid that turns into a natural-wine bar with live music at night, off the Bairro Alto circuit on Voz do Operario.
Why locals love it: A Graca bakery-bar-bistro hybrid that turns into a natural-wine bar with live music at night, off the Bairro Alto circuit.
Tip: Come for dinner Thursday for a band, stay for the pet-nat list.
Cocktail bar€€mourariaTue-Thu 14:00-24:00, Fri 12:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, closed Sun-Mon
Casa Independente in Lisbon: Cocktails in a once-crumbling Intendente palace, where DJs play across two courtyards behind a brass-knocker door.
Why locals love it: Cocktails in a once-crumbling Intendente palace, where DJs play across two courtyards behind a brass-knocker door.
Tip: Friday and Saturday nights only. Walk in, the door is unmarked.