Oitava Colina taproom Graca ★ 4.4
Why locals love it: A hilltop Graca taproom on a quiet street, ten Portuguese craft beers in a room with three tables, opens 17:00.
Tip: Walk up from Tram 28's Graca stop. Stay for a flight of all ten taps.
Damas in Lisbon's Graca: a bakery-bar-bistro hybrid on Rua da Voz do Operario, modern Portuguese plates by day, live music and natural wine by night.
Why locals love it: A Graca bakery-bar-bistro hybrid that turns into a natural-wine bar with live music at night, off the Bairro Alto circuit.
Tip: Come for dinner Thursday for a band, stay for the pet-nat list.
Address: Rua da Voz do Operario 60, 1100-621 Lisboa, Lisbon
Why locals love it: A hilltop Graca taproom on a quiet street, ten Portuguese craft beers in a room with three tables, opens 17:00.
Tip: Walk up from Tram 28's Graca stop. Stay for a flight of all ten taps.
Why locals love it: A back-alley Mouraria tasca with no signage, tile walls and charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, locals fill the long table by 19:30.
Tip: Cash only. Arrive at 12:30 or 19:30 sharp or you queue in the alley.
Why locals love it: A candlelit vegan tapas room down a Mouraria alley you would never find on purpose, with cushions on the front steps for warm nights.
Tip: Cash only and dinner-only. Book by Instagram a few days ahead.
Why locals love it: A neo-tasca tucked behind Sao Cristovao church that books out a month ahead via Instagram DM, tourists rarely find their way.
Tip: DM the Instagram account for reservations. Walk-ins are very rare.
Why locals love it: A grocer-wine-bar hybrid in Santos pouring small Portuguese growers, with sourdough sandwiches at lunch that no one writes about.
Tip: Order whatever pet-nat is open. The lunch sandwich changes daily.
Why locals love it: A hilltop Graca taproom on a quiet street, ten Portuguese craft beers in a room with three tables, opens 17:00.
Tip: Walk up from Tram 28's Graca stop. Stay for a flight of all ten taps.
Why locals love it: The canonical Alcobaca convent-sweets shop, with cornucopias and pao de lo most Lisbon visitors miss because everyone goes to Belem first.
Tip: Try the cornucopia, not the pastel de nata. It is the local secret.