The old centre around the Mercadão, the Copan building and Praça da República, where mortadella sandwiches, the bauru and historic bars live.
A Casa do Porco in República turns nose-to-tail pork from its own farm into a bar menu in Sao Paulo, keeping tables every day for walk-ins in arrival order.
OrderPorco San Zé, the house pork slow-roasted for six hours
TipWithout a booking, leave your name with the hostess from 11:00; Monday to Thursday 15:00 to 18:30 is quietest, and at weekends arrive before 11:00.
Bar da Dona Onça has run at the foot of Oscar Niemeyer's Copan building since 2008, chef Janaina Torres' popular Brazilian kitchen in Sao Paulo, Brazil.
TipThe bar occupies rooms 27 and 29 of Oscar Niemeyer's Edificio Copan; its pressure-cooker cozidos draw on recipes from across Brazil.
Almanara has served Lebanese staples near Praça da República since 1950, the chain's flagship for sfihas, falafel and kibe in Sao Paulo, Brazil.
OrderClosed sfihas (sfihas fechadas) of beef or vegetables
TipThe Basilio da Gama house is the original; Almanara now also runs branches inside several Sao Paulo shopping malls.
Cuia is chef Bel Coelho's all-day room inside the Copan building in central Sao Paulo, sharing its space with the Livraria Megafauna bookshop.
OrderThe squid tempura with tapioca and caju ponzu, and the grilled filet mignon Oswaldo Aranha.
TipSeating runs between the bookshelves or in the open-air section; pao de queijo and baiao de dois work for a lighter visit.
Café Girondino traces back to 1875 in Sao Paulo, reopening at this Centro address in 1998 to serve coffee, pastries and a full Sunday buffet brunch.
DrinkCafe com leite and pao de queijo
Padaria Santa Tereza, on Praca Joao Mendes in Sao Paulo since 1947, is Brazil's oldest bakery still trading, founded in 1872 by the Teixeira and Vaz families.
Worth the queueCoxa creme
Bar dos Arcos occupies a century-old brick vault under the Theatro Municipal in central Sao Paulo, pouring craft cocktails past 01:00 most nights.
DrinkCraft cocktails from Argentine bartender Chula
FoodShareable plates by chef Rodrigo Augusto
TipThe room sits directly below the theatre's stage, in vaults that once held its natural ventilation ducts and were restored in 1980.
Bar Brahma has run since 1948 on the corner of Ipiranga and Sao Joao in downtown Sao Paulo, pouring draft chope under nightly live samba and MPB.
DrinkDraft Brahma chope
FoodFeijoada and Brazilian boteco plates
TipAn artistic cover charge applies once the band starts: it varies by performer, so ask at the door.
Bar da Dona Onça has poured drinks at the foot of Oscar Niemeyer's Copan building in central Sao Paulo since 2008, run by chef Janaina Torres.
DrinkCaipirinhas alongside a full bar
FoodPressure-cooker cozidos from across Brazil
TipGo for the stew of the day rather than the printed menu: the cozidos rotate by region and season.
Bar do Léo has run its Republica boteco on Rua Aurora in Sao Paulo since 1940, pouring draft chope beside made-to-order sandwiches at the counter.
DrinkDraft chope
FoodMade-to-order sandwiches and quick plates
TipIt closes early by boteco standards: go for a late lunch chope rather than a nightcap.
Bar do Mane is the counter inside the Mercado Municipal in Sao Paulo credited with inventing the oversized mortadella sandwich in the 1970s.
TrySanduiche de mortadela (mortadella sandwich)
Ponto Chic is the Largo do Paissandu lanchonete in Sao Paulo credited with inventing the Bauru sandwich, named for the student who ordered it.
TrySanduiche Bauru
Bar e Lanches Estadão is a 24-hour Centro lanchonete in Sao Paulo, its roast pork sanduiche de pernil once named the city's best sandwich by Veja.
TrySanduiche de pernil (roast pork leg sandwich)
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo, the Mercadão, has traded since 1933 in Centro under a stained-glass roof, with roughly 290 food and produce boxes today.
Mercado Kinjo Yamato, next to the Mercadão since 1936, holds boxes run by Japanese, Arab and Chinese immigrant families selling produce and spices.
A Chef's Tour's evening walk through Republica and Santa Cecilia stops at family run botequins for 12 plus tastings, from pastel and baiao de dois to a cachaca pour.
A Chef's Tour's daytime walk from Marco Zero through Centro, Liberdade and Republica tastes Japanese Brazilian miso pork, Lebanese kibe and esfiha, and brigadeiro.
Bar do Léo has run its Republica boteco on Rua Aurora in Sao Paulo since 1940, pouring draft chope alongside made-to-order sandwiches and quick plates.
TrySanduiches feitos na hora e pratos rapidos (made-to-order sandwiches and quick plates)
Aroma e Sabor runs a second-generation pay-by-weight buffet above Rua Sao Bento in Sao Paulo, its rooftop looking out on the Mosteiro de Sao Bento.
TrySelf-service by weight: salads, hot dishes, home-style cooking
Ponto Chic is the budget-friendly Paissandu lanchonete in Sao Paulo credited with inventing the Bauru sandwich, still served at the counter today.
TrySanduiche Bauru
Bar e Lanches Estadao, opened in 1968, is a 24-hour lanchonete in central Sao Paulo, its roast pork pernil sandwich a cheap and filling late-night fixture.
TrySanduiche de pernil (roast pork leg sandwich)
Café Girondino, at this Centro, Sao Paulo address since its 1998 reopening, runs a Sunday buffet brunch of breads, cold cuts, cakes and fruit.
OrderFree-refill buffet of artisan breads, cold cuts, cakes and carolinas
TipThe brunch buffet runs on Sundays only, 08:00-14:00, walk-in; a fuller brunch adds hot plates from the kitchen and drinks.
Bar e Lanches Estadão is a 24 hour lanchonete in central Sao Paulo, its pernil sandwich a cheap late-night fixture for journalists and night owls alike.
OrderThe sanduiche de pernil, roast pork leg sliced to order at the counter.
TipIt never closes, so it works as a stop on the way home from a night out; the bife a cavalo is the plate if you want more than a sandwich.
Bar dos Arcos, sunk under the Theatro Municipal in central Sao Paulo, pours cocktails until 02:00 on Thursday and Friday and until 03:00 on Saturday.
OrderA cocktail from Argentine bartender Chula, served in the century-old brick vault.
TipSaturday runs latest, until 03:00: earlier nights close by 01:00 or 02:00, so check before a midnight visit.
Terraço Itália pours drinks on the 41st floor of the Edificio Italia in Republica, Sao Paulo, one of the city's highest rooftop views after dark.
TipBook the bar seating for after 20:30 rather than the daytime mirante; the bar keeps the view after sunset.
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