The old Italian quarter of Bixiga below Avenida Paulista, home of the Achiropita festa every August, pizzerias and cantinas.
Balaio IMS, on the ground floor of the Instituto Moreira Salles on Avenida Paulista, is chef Rodrigo Oliveira's Bib Gourmand room in Sao Paulo.
OrderDadinhos de tapioca, the Mocoto classic Oliveira carries over here
TipThe fifth-floor Balaio cafe serves naturally leavened breads and cakes if the ground-floor restaurant is full.
A Baianeira serves chef Manuelle Ferraz's Minas and Bahia borderland cooking two floors below MASP on Avenida Paulista, a sister to the Barra Funda room.
OrderThe pao de queijo starter and the baiao de dois with braised meat.
TipStart with the pao de queijo, a recipe the chef has cooked since she started out; daily specials run alongside the baiao de dois.
Basilicata has baked its thick-crusted Italian bread in Bixiga, Sao Paulo, since 1914, growing from a panetteria into a bakery, emporio and restaurant.
Worth the queuePao Italiano Basilicata
Enoteca Nacional is a Bela Vista wine bar in Sao Paulo devoted only to Brazilian labels, pouring boteco-priced glasses from the Serra Gaucha to the north.
PourRotating Brazilian list by the glass from R$ 18
WineExclusively Brazilian wine, Serra Gaucha to Vale do Sao Francisco
FoodPizzas, pastéis and cold-cut boards
TipAsk for a flight across regions rather than one bottle: the list spans Brazil's whole wine map.
Since 1926, Festa de Nossa Senhora Achiropita has filled Bixiga's streets every August weekend with Italian food stalls, wine and a paid cantina benefiting the parish.
Speranza Bixiga is the Tarallo family cantina in Sao Paulo credited with the capital's first Margherita pizza, still baked on Rua Treze de Maio.
TryPizza Margherita and Tortano
Riviera Bar has poured drinks on Avenida Paulista around the clock since 1949, once a meeting point for artists resisting the military dictatorship.
TipThe bar never closes, so it is a real option for a 3am plate after everything else on Avenida Paulista has shut.
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