Mercado 20 de Noviembre pan dulce row ★ 4.2
Mercado 20 de Noviembre's pan dulce row runs the southwest aisle, with conchas, pan de yema and pan de muerto every October from a dozen Oaxacan home bakers.
Worth the queue: Pan de muerto in October
El Volador tejate counter is a bakery in Centro Historico, Oaxaca.
El Volador in the Jardin Socrates pours tejate, the prehispanic maize-and-cacao drink declared Oaxacan cultural heritage in 2023, with totopos on the side.
Address: Jardin Socrates, Plaza de la Danza, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca
Mercado 20 de Noviembre's pan dulce row runs the southwest aisle, with conchas, pan de yema and pan de muerto every October from a dozen Oaxacan home bakers.
Worth the queue: Pan de muerto in October
Chocolate La Soledad on Mina is the other long-running chocolate house in the Mina-20 de Noviembre block, with stone-ground cacao milled on the counter daily.
Worth the queue: Chocolate de leche tablet
Chocolate Guelaguetza on Calle 20 de Noviembre has run since 1956, with stone-ground cacao tablets and pre-mixed mole pastes sold by the kilo for home cooks.
Worth the queue: Mole-tablet kit
The tejate vendors at Mercado Benito Juarez whisk maize, cacao, mamey seed and cacao flower into the foamed prehispanic drink, served from gourd bowls.
Worth the queue: Tejate bowl
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas's bread row sits in the third hall, with pan dulce, conchas, tejate and a fonda counter (Yolis, Lupita, Nelly) open from 06:00 daily.
Worth the queue: Pan de yema
Mercado 20 de Noviembre's pan dulce row runs the southwest aisle, with conchas, pan de yema and pan de muerto every October from a dozen Oaxacan home bakers.
Worth the queue: Pan de muerto in October
Chocolate La Soledad on Mina is the other long-running chocolate house in the Mina-20 de Noviembre block, with stone-ground cacao milled on the counter daily.
Worth the queue: Chocolate de leche tablet
Chocolate Guelaguetza on Calle 20 de Noviembre has run since 1956, with stone-ground cacao tablets and pre-mixed mole pastes sold by the kilo for home cooks.
Worth the queue: Mole-tablet kit
The tejate vendors at Mercado Benito Juarez whisk maize, cacao, mamey seed and cacao flower into the foamed prehispanic drink, served from gourd bowls.
Worth the queue: Tejate bowl
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas's bread row sits in the third hall, with pan dulce, conchas, tejate and a fonda counter (Yolis, Lupita, Nelly) open from 06:00 daily.
Worth the queue: Pan de yema
The Mercado Reyes Etla pan and quesillo row sells Oaxacan string cheese pulled fresh and traditional pan dulce on tianguis days, half-an-hour north of Centro.
Worth the queue: Bola de quesillo