Chocolate Guelaguetza ★ 3.8
Chocolate Guelaguetza on Calle 20 de Noviembre has run since 1956, with stone-ground cacao tablets and pre-mixed mole pastes sold by the kilo for home cooks.
Worth the queue: Mole-tablet kit
Chocolate La Soledad is a bakery in Centro Historico, Oaxaca.
Chocolate La Soledad on Mina is the other long-running chocolate house in the Mina-20 de Noviembre block, with stone-ground cacao milled on the counter daily.
Address: Mina 212, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca
Chocolate Guelaguetza on Calle 20 de Noviembre has run since 1956, with stone-ground cacao tablets and pre-mixed mole pastes sold by the kilo for home cooks.
Worth the queue: Mole-tablet kit
The tejate vendors at Mercado Benito Juarez whisk maize, cacao, mamey seed and cacao flower into the foamed prehispanic drink, served from gourd bowls.
Worth the queue: Tejate bowl
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas's bread row sits in the third hall, with pan dulce, conchas, tejate and a fonda counter (Yolis, Lupita, Nelly) open from 06:00 daily.
Worth the queue: Pan de yema
Boulenc on Porfirio Diaz is Oaxaca's masa-madre flagship, with a stone-mill country loaf, cardamom spirals and a vegan-marked menu in a hotel courtyard.
Worth the queue: Sourdough country loaf
Pan con Madre on Quetzalcoatl is Oaxaca's sourdough pioneer, an open-kitchen bakery with cardamom spirals, focaccia and dulce-de-leche rolls on the counter.
Worth the queue: Cardamom spiral
Chocolate Guelaguetza on Calle 20 de Noviembre has run since 1956, with stone-ground cacao tablets and pre-mixed mole pastes sold by the kilo for home cooks.
Worth the queue: Mole-tablet kit
The tejate vendors at Mercado Benito Juarez whisk maize, cacao, mamey seed and cacao flower into the foamed prehispanic drink, served from gourd bowls.
Worth the queue: Tejate bowl
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas's bread row sits in the third hall, with pan dulce, conchas, tejate and a fonda counter (Yolis, Lupita, Nelly) open from 06:00 daily.
Worth the queue: Pan de yema
The Mercado Reyes Etla pan and quesillo row sells Oaxacan string cheese pulled fresh and traditional pan dulce on tianguis days, half-an-hour north of Centro.
Worth the queue: Bola de quesillo
Boulenc on Porfirio Diaz is Oaxaca's masa-madre flagship, with a stone-mill country loaf, cardamom spirals and a vegan-marked menu in a hotel courtyard.
Worth the queue: Sourdough country loaf
Pan con Madre on Quetzalcoatl is Oaxaca's sourdough pioneer, an open-kitchen bakery with cardamom spirals, focaccia and dulce-de-leche rolls on the counter.
Worth the queue: Cardamom spiral