Adobo-marinated pork shaved off a vertical trompo, served on a small corn tortilla with a sliver of pineapple, raw onion, fresh cilantro and a wedge of lime.
Lebanese-Mexican immigrants brought the Levantine shawarma technique to Mexico City in the 1920s to 1940s, replacing lamb with pork marinated in adobo of guajillo, achiote and pineapple juice. The trompo stack and the pineapple finish became the signature in the late 1930s; El Tizoncito on Tamaulipas (1966) claims to have invented the modern small-tortilla version. El Huequito (1959) was an even earlier operation on Ayuntamiento. The 2024 Michelin Guide recognised El Califa de Leon on Ribera de San Cosme as the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star.
El Vilsito in Mexico City is the Narvarte mechanic shop by day and taqueria by night on Peten, a Bib Gourmand spot where the al pastor trompo fires up.
OrderFive tacos al pastor with the house green and red salsas; a Coca-Cola in a glass bottle.
TipOpen evenings only; the queue is real after midnight Friday and Saturday. Cash; metro Eugenia is the easiest arrival.
El Huequito in Mexico City is the 1959 Centro Historico al pastor stand on Ayuntamiento, one of the earliest taqueria operations to plate the trompo-cut pork.
OrderThree tacos al pastor with the house red salsa; a pina (pineapple) agua fresca on the side.
TipThe original Ayuntamiento alley counter is barely a window in the wall; sit-down branches now run across the city but the original counter is the relic.
Tacos El Califa de Leon in Mexico City is the San Rafael trompo-cut taqueria on Ribera de San Cosme, the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star.
OrderThe taco gaonera; the taco al pastor; the green and red house salsas.
TipTiny standing counter; lines run two hours since the Michelin star landed. Cash only. Open lunch and into the evening.
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria chain on Altata since 1980, the late-night al carbon counter that runs to 04:00 and is the standard Condesa.
OrderTres tacos campechanos; one taco gaonera; a side of esquites.
TipLate night runs hot; the Altata flagship has the longest hours. El Califa de Leon on San Cosme is the sibling that earned a 2024 Michelin star.
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