El Huequito ★ 4.5
El Huequito in Mexico City is the 1959 Centro al pastor counter that runs through dinner until 22:00 in the original Ayuntamiento alley, the late-evening.
Try: Tacos al pastor
History
Lebanese-Mexican immigrants brought the Levantine shawarma technique to Mexico City in the 1920s to 1940s, replacing lamb with pork marinated in adobo of guajillo, achiote and pineapple juice. The trompo stack and the pineapple finish became the signature in the late 1930s; El Tizoncito on Tamaulipas (1966) claims to have invented the modern small-tortilla version. El Huequito (1959) was an even earlier operation on Ayuntamiento. The 2024 Michelin Guide recognised El Califa de Leon on Ribera de San Cosme as the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 800g pork shoulder, sliced thinly against the grain
- 3 dried guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed
- 2 dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed
- 1 tablespoon achiote paste
- 3 cloves garlic, peeled
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 120ml pineapple juice
- 60ml white vinegar
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 12 small corn tortillas (10cm)
- 150g fresh pineapple, finely diced
- 1 medium white onion, finely diced
- Fresh cilantro, chopped
- Lime wedges, salsa verde
Method
- Toast the dried chiles in a dry pan over medium heat for 30 seconds per side until pliable. Soak them in hot water for 15 minutes to soften.
- Drain the chiles and blend with achiote, garlic, cumin, oregano, pineapple juice, vinegar and salt until smooth.
- Pour the marinade over the sliced pork in a bowl. Mix thoroughly so every slice is coated. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours, ideally overnight.
- Heat a heavy skillet or comal over medium-high heat. Cook the pork in batches in a single layer for 3 to 4 minutes per side until charred and cooked through. Chop the cooked pork finely on the cutting board.
- Warm the corn tortillas in a dry pan, 15 seconds per side, until pliable. Stack and wrap in a clean cloth to keep warm.
- Build each taco: a heaping spoonful of pork on the tortilla, a small spoon of diced pineapple, a sprinkle of onion and cilantro, a squeeze of lime. Eat immediately.
Tip from the editors. Slice the pork as thinly as possible while still partially frozen; a butcher will do this if you ask. The pineapple is essential, not decorative; the bromelain tenderises the pork.
Where to eat tacos al pastor
Tacos al pastor in Mexico City
El Tizoncito ★ 4.4
El Tizoncito in Mexico City is the 1966 Condesa al pastor taqueria where four tacos with pineapple run about 140 pesos at sidewalk tables along Tamaulipas.
Try: Four tacos al pastor with pina
El Vilsito ★ 4.8
El Vilsito in Mexico City is the Narvarte mechanic shop by day and Bib Gourmand al pastor taqueria by night on Peten, with the trompo running past 02:00 most.
Try: Tacos al pastor (night shift trompo)
Tacos El Califa de Leon ★ 4.6
Tacos El Califa de Leon in Mexico City is the San Rafael trompo-cut taqueria on Ribera de San Cosme, the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star.
Try: Taco gaonera
Order: The taco gaonera; the taco al pastor; the green and red house salsas.
Tip: Tiny standing counter; lines run two hours since the Michelin star landed. Cash only. Open lunch and into the evening.
El Califa Condesa ★ 4.3
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria on Altata that runs till 04:00 daily, the late-night al carbon counter and the go-to Condesa post-bar stop.
Try: Campechano and gaonera tacos
More cities are in research. Want tacos al pastor covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.