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Street foodCentro HistoricoCash only
Los Cocuyos in Mexico City is the 24-hour Centro Historico taqueria on Bolivar since 1980, the Bib Gourmand counter known for melting suadero, longaniza.
OrderThree suadero tacos with both salsas; a campechano (mixed suadero and longaniza).
TipOpen 24 hours; a second annex three doors down has tables and is the quieter option after midnight.
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Street foodCondesa
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria chain on Altata since 1980, the late-night al carbon counter that runs to 04:00 and is the standard Condesa.
OrderTres tacos campechanos; one taco gaonera; a side of esquites.
TipLate night runs hot; the Altata flagship has the longest hours. El Califa de Leon on San Cosme is the sibling that earned a 2024 Michelin star.
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Street foodSan RafaelCash only
Tacos El Califa de Leon in Mexico City is the San Rafael trompo-cut taqueria on Ribera de San Cosme, the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star.
OrderThe taco gaonera; the taco al pastor; the green and red house salsas.
TipTiny standing counter; lines run two hours since the Michelin star landed. Cash only. Open lunch and into the evening.
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Street foodRoma NorteCash only
Tlacoyos Dona Jose in Mexico City is the Roma Norte breakfast comal on Cordoba, the comal-griddle counter that puts out blue-corn tlacoyos filled with frijol.
OrderTwo tlacoyos de haba topped with nopales, queso fresco and salsa verde.
TipCash only and weekday mornings only; the queue forms around 09:00 with neighbourhood regulars. Last sale is when the masa runs out.
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Street foodRoma NorteCash only
Tamales Dona Emi in Mexico City is the Roma Norte morning tamal cart on the corner of Alvaro Obregon and Cordoba, the weekday breakfast stand that wraps.
OrderA guajolota (tamal in a torta) with atole de fresa; one tamal mole on the side.
TipOpen until the masa is gone, usually by noon. Cash only; the regulars start queueing at 07:30 on weekdays.
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Street foodCondesaCash only
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Hipodromo Condesa evening cart on Citlaltepetl at Insurgentes Sur, a long-running esquites stand that ladles.
OrderEsquites with mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime; an elote on the cob to go.
TipCash only; an esquite goes for about 40 pesos. The cart is mobile; check Instagram for the night's exact corner.