Chiles en nogada
Photo: Ahleli · CC BY-SA 4.0

A roasted poblano chile stuffed with picadillo of pork, beef, apple, pear, peach, almonds and raisins, topped with a creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds. The green, white and red colors echo the Mexican flag.

Chiles en nogada were created in 1821 by the Augustinian nuns of the Convento de Santa Monica in Puebla, in honour of Agustin de Iturbide passing through after the signing of the Plan de Iguala. The dish's three colors match the Mexican tricolor flag, which is why the dish is the patriotic-season specialty served late July through early September. The 1821 origin is documented and the dish is now obligatory across Mexico City's traditional Mexican kitchens during the patriotic season.

4 editor picks for Chiles en nogada in Mexico City, ranked by editorial score. All Mexico City signature dishes · Chiles en nogada across every city.

Also in: Puebla.

El Cardenal ★ 4.6

$$Traditional MexicanCentro Historico

El Cardenal in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico room on Palma, the traditional Mexican breakfast institution where hot chocolate.

OrderThe hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada when in season July to September.

TipOpen 08:00-18:00; the Centro location seats four floors and still queues by 09:30 on Sunday morning.

Nicos ★ 4.6

$$$Traditional MexicanAzcapotzalco

Nicos in Mexico City is Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco room on Cuitlahuac, the traditional Mexican kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50.

OrderThe mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas, a layered creamy casserole.

TipClosed Sunday dinner and Monday; the slow-cooked moles are the move at lunch. Worth the cab from Polanco for the home-cooking depth.

Azul Historico ★ 4.4

$$$Traditional MexicanCentro Historico

Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's traditional Mexican kitchen inside the courtyard of the Downtown Mexico hotel on Isabel la.

OrderThe mole negro from Oaxaca; the cochinita pibil tacos.

TipSit in the open courtyard under the Indian laurel; ask for the table closest to the fountain. Brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends.

San Angel Inn ★ 4.4

$$$Traditional MexicanSan Angel

San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant on Diego Rivera, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room in San Angel where the Margarita.

OrderChiles en nogada when in season July to September; the sopa de tortilla year round.

TipThe patio is the seat; book two weeks ahead for Saturday lunch under the bougainvillea. Mariachi runs Sunday afternoon.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Chiles en nogada makes more sense with someone from Mexico City explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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