Sonora-style fish tacos$condesa
El Pescadito in Mexico City is the Sonora-import battered-fish taqueria with multiple branches; the Condesa stand on Atlixco runs the standing-counter style with marlin, shrimp and battered fish tacos.
Signature: Tacos de pescado capeado, Tacos de camaron, Marlin tacos
Order: Two tacos de pescado capeado; one taco de camaron; salsa cremosa.
Tip: Stand-up counters; no reservations. Open 12:00 to 22:00 daily. Cash preferred.
Modern fonda Mexican$$roma-norte
Fonda Fina in Mexico City is the Roma Norte modern fonda on Medellin from chef Juan Cabrera, a daytime Mexican kitchen that updates traditional Mexico City home cooking with a tasting-menu format.
Signature: Sopa de mariscos, Pescado a la veracruzana, Mole de la casa
Order: Sopa de mariscos; whichever guisado fills the chef's plate that day; the daily mole.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the dining room runs more festively on Saturdays. Closed Monday.
Traditional Mexican$$$centro-historico
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Centro Historico courtyard kitchen at the Downtown Mexico hotel, the regional Mexican mole specialist with seats under the Indian laurel.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: Mole negro from Oaxaca; cochinita pibil tacos; an agua fresca de la temporada.
Tip: The open courtyard table closest to the fountain is the seat; brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends. Walk-ins land most weekdays.
Mexican breakfast and pastries$$condesa
Maque in Mexico City is the Condesa morning room on Ozuluama that pairs handmade pan dulce with chilaquiles and huevos divorciados, a regular Sunday brunch stop on the Parque Mexico spine.
Signature: Chilaquiles, Pan dulce, Huevos con tasajo
Order: Chilaquiles verdes with chicken; a concha de vainilla; cafe de olla.
Tip: Daily 07:30 to 22:00. Walks-ins fill by 09:30 Sunday; arrive earlier or expect a 30 minute wait for the patio.
Mexican seafood$$$roma-norte
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name on the tuna tostada and the split-color pescado a la talla.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
Mexican-Mediterranean$$$condesa
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' all-day Condesa room on Agustin Melgar since 2015, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta that runs from morning eggs to late dinner pasta.
Signature: Wood-fired flatbreads, Pasta, Brunch plates
Order: The wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
Tip: Open from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins easier at 11:00 weekdays than 14:00.