Taqueria$condesa
El Pescadito in Mexico City is the Sonora-import battered-fish taqueria with multiple branches; the Condesa stand on Atlixco runs the standing-counter style.
Signature: Tacos de pescado capeado, Tacos de camaron, Marlin tacos
Order: Two tacos de pescado capeado; one taco de camaron; salsa cremosa.
Tip: Stand-up counters; no reservations. Open 12:00-22:00 daily. Cash preferred.
Mexican$$roma-norte
Fonda Fina in Mexico City is the Roma Norte modern fonda on Medellin from chef Juan Cabrera, a daytime Mexican kitchen that updates traditional Mexico City.
Signature: Sopa de mariscos, Pescado a la veracruzana, Mole de la casa
Order: Sopa de mariscos; whichever guisado fills the chef's plate that day; the daily mole.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the dining room runs more festively on Saturdays. Closed Monday.
Traditional Mexican$$$centro-historico
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Centro Historico courtyard kitchen at the Downtown Mexico hotel, the regional Mexican mole.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: Mole negro from Oaxaca; cochinita pibil tacos; an agua fresca de la temporada.
Tip: The open courtyard table closest to the fountain is the seat; brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends. Walk-ins land most weekdays.
Mexican$$condesa
Maque in Mexico City is the Condesa morning room on Ozuluama that pairs handmade pan dulce with chilaquiles and huevos divorciados, a regular Sunday brunch.
Signature: Chilaquiles, Pan dulce, Huevos con tasajo
Order: Chilaquiles verdes with chicken; a concha de vainilla; cafe de olla.
Tip: Daily 07:30-22:00. Walks-ins fill by 09:30 Sunday; arrive earlier or expect a 30 minute wait for the patio.
Mexican Seafood$$$roma-norte
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
Mexican-mediterranean$$$condesa
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' all-day Condesa room on Agustin Melgar since 2015, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta that runs.
Signature: Wood-fired flatbreads, Pasta, Brunch plates
Order: The wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
Tip: Open from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins easier at 11:00 weekdays than 14:00.