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ItalianOstiense
Trattoria Pennestri is a italian room in Ostiense. Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
Why locals goHidden in the south Ostiense industrial edge, Tommaso Pennestri's modern trattoria runs the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata under most tourist radars.
TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
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Street foodTestaccio
Mordi e Vai is tucked inside the mercato di testaccio at box 15, sergio esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
Why locals goTucked inside the Mercato di Testaccio at box 15, Sergio Esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
TipClosed Sunday. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.
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ItalianTestaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome: Small-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
Why locals goSmall-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
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ItalianCentocelle
180g Pizzeria Romana is a italian room in Centocelle. Closed Monday. Book a week ahead. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk; or 12 euros cab from centre.
Why locals goJacopo Mercuro's modern Roman pizzeria sits in Centocelle, the eastern fringe of the city, away from the Centro Storico tourist trails.
TipClosed Monday. Book a week ahead. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk; or 12 euros cab from centre.
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ItalianMonti
Trecca is off the tor pignattara axis, trecca's small-room trattoria has run the lazio mountain cucina canon since 2020 under most tourists' notice.
Why locals goOff the Tor Pignattara axis, Trecca's small-room trattoria has run the Lazio mountain cucina canon since 2020 under most tourists' notice.
TipClosed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
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ItalianEsquilino
Sarah Cicolini's San Giovanni trattoria from 2017, Abruzzese cooking forequarters and offal; trippa alla romana, NYT-praised; moved to bigger room in 2025.
Why locals goOff the Re di Roma metro stop in the Esquiline edge, Sarah Cicolini's modern Roman kitchen runs trippa and pasta under most tourist itineraries.
TipClosed Sunday all day, Monday dinner. Book three weeks ahead for the 35-cover room.