Pyaaz kachori at dawn, bazaar thalis and palace dining rooms after dark.
Free cancellation on most tours, with live prices on the partner's site.
Jaipur eats from its bazaars. In the walled Pink City, snack and sweet shops in Johari Bazaar, Chaura Rasta and Chandpole fry pyaaz kachori and mirchi vada from early morning, and Sambhar Fini Wala has sold Rajasthani sweets in Johari Bazaar since 1966, by Time Out's account. Much of the classic food is vegetarian, from the dal baati churma served at LMB, Thali and More and Santosh Bhojnalaya to gatte ki sabzi and ker sangri, while laal maas is the meat dish Spice Court is known for. Lassiwala on MI Road and Rawat Mishthan Bhandar on Station Road are two of the counters that Jaipur's food guides name most often. Palace hotels run the formal dining rooms, from Suvarna Mahal at Rambagh Palace to Jamavar at The Leela and 1135 AD inside Amer Fort, and C-Scheme has filled with specialty coffee shops such as Curious Life, which has roasted in Jaipur since 2014. The seasons set the sweets: ghewar around Teej in the monsoon, pheeni and gajak for the January kite festival.
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The plates that define eating in Jaipur.
Lentils, hard baked wheat rolls and a sweet crumble of ghee and sugar, eaten together; in Jaipur it anchors the Rajasthani thali and is cooked from dhabas to hotels.
Where Santosh Bhojnalaya, Thali and More (C-Scheme), Laxmi Misthan Bhandar (LMB), Handi Restaurant, Chokhi Dhani
Where to eat Dal baati churma in Jaipur →Boiled gram-flour dumplings simmered in a spiced yoghurt gravy, a vegetarian staple of the Rajasthani thali that Jaipur's heritage restaurants and dhabas both cook.
Where Spice Court, 1135 AD, Chokhi Dhani
Where to eat Gatte ki sabzi in Jaipur →Dried desert berries and khejri tree pods, soaked, boiled and cooked with spices or yoghurt into a tangy, pickle-like side dish served as part of the Rajasthani thali.
Where Cafe Kothi, Spice Court, Thali and More (C-Scheme)
Where to eat Ker sangri in Jaipur →A flaky, deep-fried pastry stuffed with spiced onion and eaten hot with tamarind and coriander chutneys, the standard Jaipur breakfast snack from dawn onwards.
Where Rawat Mishthan Bhandar, Sodhani Sweets (Bapu Nagar), Samrat Restaurant, Sampat Namkeen Bhandar
Where to eat Pyaaz kachori in Jaipur →A sweet kachori stuffed with mawa and dry fruit and dipped in sugar syrup, sold at Jaipur's sweet shops beside the savoury onion version and eaten hot.
Where Rawat Mishthan Bhandar, Laxmi Misthan Bhandar (LMB), Sodhani Sweets (Bapu Nagar)
Where to eat Mawa kachori in Jaipur →A long green chilli stuffed with spiced potato, coated in gram-flour batter and deep-fried, a rainy-season snack from Jodhpur that Jaipur's stalls and food courts also sell.
Where Samrat Restaurant, Masala Chowk
Where to eat Mirchi vada in Jaipur →A disc of fried batter with a honeycomb texture, soaked in sugar syrup and often topped with rabri or mawa, made by Jaipur's sweet shops around Teej and Gangaur.
Where Sambhar Fini Wala, Laxmi Misthan Bhandar (LMB), Sodhani Sweets (Bapu Nagar), Rawat Mishthan Bhandar, Dzurt Patisserie
Where to eat Ghewar in Jaipur →A thick, chilled yoghurt drink served in a clay kulhad under a layer of malai; Jaipur's MI Road has a long-running lassi shop and its sweet shops pour it too.
Where Lassiwala (MI Road), Sodhani Sweets (Bapu Nagar)
Where to eat Lassi in Jaipur →Milk simmered for hours until dense, with layers of cream folded in, then chilled and finished with cardamom and nuts; the sweet that gives Mahaveer Rabri Bhandar its name.
Where Mahaveer Rabri Bhandar (Chandpole)
Where to eat Rabri in Jaipur →A dense frozen milk dessert flavoured with saffron, pistachio or cardamom and set in moulds without churning; Jaipur's old-city kulfi shops stay open late.
Where Pandit Kulfi, Ramchandra Kulfi Bhandar
Where to eat Kulfi in Jaipur →A handful of the places we send friends to when they are in Jaipur.
Arirasa is an all-vegetarian North Indian restaurant in Lal Kothi, Jaipur, in a neo-Art Deco room, serving kair korma, edamame seekh kebab and khamiri roti.
OrderThe kair korma with dahi ki khamiri roti, and the edamame seekh kebab.
Spice Court serves Rajasthani food in a 1930s colonial mansion on Jacob Road in Jaipur, best known for keema baati, laal maas and junglee maas.
OrderKeema baati with jhol, then laal maas with butter naan; vegetarians can order papad mangodi sabzi.
Sharma Dhaba & Garden on Sikar Road, Jaipur, is a North Indian dhaba that Time Out calls all-vegetarian, known for crisp breads, malai kofta and mawa paratha.
OrderThe mawa paratha with malai kofta and the creamy cashewnut curry.
Once Upon A Time At The Bagh, a garden restaurant in Jaipur, serves Indian and Mughlai dishes beside fountains, with the Aravalli hills in view.
OrderThe mutton chapli kebab and the laal maans, which the kitchen does best.
Primitive, a progressive Indian restaurant at Hotel Pearl Palace in Jaipur, cooks over charcoal and wood, from coal-roasted sweet potato to gajar halwa.
OrderThe coal-roasted shakarkand do pyaza and the Awadhi malai paneer, then the carrot-shaped halwa.
Shikaar Bagh is the all-day restaurant and bar at Narain Niwas Palace in Rambagh, Jaipur, with wooden interiors and north Indian and European plates.
OrderThe mushroom galouti kebabs or the char-grilled prawns.
The walled Pink City of bazaars around Hawa Mahal and the City Palace: kachori and sweet shops in Johari Bazaar, Chaura Rasta and Chandpole, and haveli dining rooms.
Best for: Kachori, Sweets, Rajasthani thali, Chaat, Lassi
Mirza Ismail Road runs outside the southern walls from Ajmeri Gate to Panch Batti, with old lassi and kachori counters, Station Road sweet shops and hotel bars.
Best for: Lassi, Kachori, Chai, Sweets
The leafy grid south of MI Road where bungalows hold Jaipur's specialty coffee shops, brunch cafes, cocktail rooms and modern Indian kitchens.
Best for: Coffee, Brunch, Cocktails, Modern Indian
Jawaharlal Nehru Marg from Ram Niwas Bagh and Masala Chowk south past the university, with Rambagh and Narain Singh Road close by, where palace hotels run restaurants and garden bars.
Best for: Street food, Hotel dining, Italian, Cocktails
Raja Park and Adarsh Nagar east of the centre: a busy local market strip of snack counters, cafes and casual restaurants.
Best for: Snacks, Cafes, Casual dining
Tonk Road runs south from the centre through Bapu Nagar, Lal Kothi and Durgapura towards the airport, lined with sweet shops, vegetarian restaurants and late cafes.
Best for: Sweets, Vegetarian, Cafes, Late-night
Dal baati churma
Lentils, hard baked wheat rolls and a sweet crumble of ghee and sugar, eaten together; in Jaipur it anchors the Rajasthani thali and is cooked from dhabas to hotels
Gatte ki sabzi
Boiled gram-flour dumplings simmered in a spiced yoghurt gravy, a vegetarian staple of the Rajasthani thali that Jaipur's heritage restaurants and dhabas both cook
Ker sangri
Dried desert berries and khejri tree pods, soaked, boiled and cooked with spices or yoghurt into a tangy, pickle-like side dish served as part of the Rajasthani thali
Pyaaz kachori
A flaky, deep-fried pastry stuffed with spiced onion and eaten hot with tamarind and coriander chutneys, the standard Jaipur breakfast snack from dawn onwards
Mawa kachori
A sweet kachori stuffed with mawa and dry fruit and dipped in sugar syrup, sold at Jaipur's sweet shops beside the savoury onion version and eaten hot
Every restaurant, cafe, market and bar we cover in Jaipur, pinned. Click a pin for the page.
Peak food season: October to March, when the weather suits walks through the old-city food lanes and the 14 January kite festival brings pheeni, gajak and til ladoo. July and August are ghewar season, around the Teej processions.
Local dining hours: Kachori and chai counters open from about 06:00; lunch runs 12:30 to 15:00 and dinner 19:30 to 23:00. Most bars close between 23:00 and 01:00, and Rajasthan keeps dry days, including 26 January, 15 August and 2 October.
Tipping: Some sit-down restaurants add a service charge to the bill, which you can ask to have removed; if none is added, 5 to 10 percent is usual. Street stalls and sweet shops do not expect tips.
Jaipur's signature dishes include Dal baati churma, Gatte ki sabzi, Ker sangri, Laal maas, Pyaaz kachori. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.
TableJourney editors map Jaipur by district. Old City (Pink City), MI Road, C-Scheme, JLN Marg and Rambagh are among the strongest for food, each with its own guide.
Editor picks in Jaipur include Jamavar, Surya Mahal, Peshawri, plus the full fine dining chapter on TableJourney.
TableJourney covers 4 editor-picked food tours in Jaipur, with what each shows you and how much to budget.
TableJourney's Jaipur dietary chapter covers vegetarian, vegan, gluten_free venues, each editor-picked with what to order and how to ask.
