$$$$
CafeMi Road
Indian Coffee House on MI Road, Jaipur, is a long-running filter coffee room in a narrow lane, where regulars have met for decades over a cup of coffee.
OrderThe filter coffee, which a regular of 30 years praises in ETV Bharat's report.
Why locals goThe coffee house sits in a narrow lane off MI Road and looks unassuming from outside, easy to miss among the new cafes that have opened across Jaipur.
TipThe original is off MI Road, and a second branch opened at Jawahar Kala Kendra in 2004; staff wear the same uniform as in every branch.
$$$$
Ice creamOld City
Ramchandra Kulfi Bhandar on Tripolia Bazaar in Jaipur sells kulfi near Badi Chaupar until 23:00; Outlook Traveller's writer rates it a rival to Pandit Kulfi.
OrderThe kulfi, then a taste-off against Pandit Kulfi's kesar and rabri flavours.
Why locals goPandit Kulfi near Hawa Mahal gets the headline in Outlook Traveller's guide; its writer says this Tripolia Bazaar shop gives it close competition.
TipThe shop is on Tripolia Bazaar by Badi Chaupar and keeps late hours, so it works as a last stop after an evening walk through the old city.
$$$$
Street foodOld City
GC Dairy on Chaura Rasta in Jaipur's old city serves sweet makkhan, lassi and chaach, with the butter handed over on leaves and the buttermilk in kulhads.
OrderSweet makkhan with pistachios, lassi and namkeen chaach; a Local Food Club walk had shrikhand and makhan.
Why locals goA small counter run by an old couple beside the far busier Samrat on Chaura Rasta, easy to pass while queueing for kachoris.
TipGo after a kachori breakfast at Samrat next door and ask for the makkhan topped with pistachios, then a kulhad of namkeen chaach.
$$$$
Street foodOld City
Kaljug Halwai, also called Tiporewalas, sells mirchi ki tipore, a pickled green chilli snack, off Kishanpole Bazar in Jaipur's walled city until 22:00.
OrderMirchi ki tipore, a tangy pickled green chilli, eaten as a snack.
Why locals goIt sits down Khunteton Ka Rasta off Kishanpole Bazar and sells mirchi ki tipore, a pickled chilli snack the Local Food Club walk made a point of tasting.
TipAsk for the tipore, a tangy pickled green chilli eaten as a snack, and expect a halwai counter rather than a seated restaurant.
$$$$
Street foodOld City
Radhe Kachori Wala is a small old-city shop on Churukon Ka Rasta in Jaipur, frying spicy kachoris and hot samosas from 06:00 to 22:00 every day.
OrderA freshly fried kachori straight from the pan, and a hot samosa.
Why locals goLifestyle Asia calls it a hole-in-the-wall shop in the old city whose name locals give for lesser-known pyaaz kachori, in a lane opposite the better-known Puran Ji.
TipYash Dixit's Kachoris of Jaipur puts it opposite Puran Ji Kachori Wale, so the two shops can be tried back to back.
$$$$
Street foodOld CityCash only
Sampat Namkeen Bhandar in Chandpole Bazaar, Jaipur, has fried spicy aloo kachori with an unpeeled-potato filling since 1936, by Time Out's account.
OrderThe aloo kachori, which comes without chutney; expect to want a second.
Why locals goLifestyle Asia places it in the cramped lanes of Chandpole, a no-nonsense stall that often sells out by 12:00, so late risers miss it.
TipBring cash, because the shop does not take online payments; it is opposite Darbar School on Baba Harishchandra Marg.
$$$$
Street foodOld City
Puran Ji Kachori Wale has fried hing kachoris filled with moong dal at Chaura Rasta in Jaipur since 1963, and serves them with fresh curd instead of chutney.
OrderThe hing kachori with curd, then a mawa kachori or a samosa.
Why locals goCondé Nast Traveller India says locals send you to 'bank wali gali' for hing kachori: a side lane at Chaura Rasta rather than a main road.
TipBesides the hing kachori the shop sells mawa kachori, hing namkeen, samosa, pyaaz kachori and dahi kachori, plus laddoos and jalebis.
$$$$
Street foodRaja Park
Nand Chaat Bhandar, known locally as Nandvala, serves paani puri and dahi papdi at its Fashion Street address in Raja Park, Jaipur, from 16:30 to 21:00.
OrderThe paani puri, six to a round with extra water after, and the dahi papdi.
Why locals goNandwala sits down a lane in Raja Park, and Outlook Traveller says reaching it means wading through a labyrinth of lanes and Raja Park traffic.
TipAsk for the separate meetha paani; the stall opens at 16:30, so go in the evening.
$$$$
RajasthaniOld City
Mahaveer Rabri Bhandar in Chandpole Bazar, Jaipur, serves a thali of aloo pyaz sabzi, tikkad roti and garlic chutney, then laccha rabri; about ₹400 for two.
OrderThe aloo pyaz sabzi thali with tikkad roti and garlic chutney, then laccha rabri.
Why locals goTime Out calls it a hole-in-the-wall shop in the old city, in a lane off Chandpole Bazar, run by the fourth generation of one family.
TipTime Out advises crushing the roti, pouring the sabzi over it and adding the garlic chutney; this is the Chandpole shop.