The walled Pink City of bazaars around Hawa Mahal and the City Palace: kachori and sweet shops in Johari Bazaar, Chaura Rasta and Chandpole, and haveli dining rooms.
The Johri is an all-vegetarian restaurant in a 19th-century haveli in Johri Bazaar, Jaipur, pairing fusion plates such as soya keema baati with cocktails.
OrderThe soya keema baati, or the seekh kebab made with peas and edamame.
TipLunch runs 13:00 to 17:00 and dinner 19:00 to 23:30; Time Out puts a meal at about ₹2,000 for two without alcohol.
Baradari is the restaurant inside the City Palace in Jaipur, serving contemporary Rajasthani dishes such as smoked lal maas with baati, indoors and outdoors.
OrderSmoked lal maas with baati and scalloped potatoes, or the pyaaz kachori with mozzarella.
TipIt sits by Gate 2 of the City Palace, so it suits a meal after your palace visit; the kitchen is open from 11:00 to 23:00 every day.
The Sarvato serves a set Rajasthani tasting menu inside the City Palace in Jaipur, for dinner only between September and April, by reservation only.
OrderThe set tasting menu, with the wine pairing (₹3,500 plus taxes) if you want it.
TipOpen from September to April, reservation only; the evening lasts 90 to 120 minutes, so arrive for the 19:30 start.
The Johri's bar, Johri & Sons, mixes saffron and Mathania chilli cocktails inside a haveli on MSB Ka Rasta in Johri Bazaar, in Jaipur's walled city.
OrderThe Gypsy Trade, a saffron liquor cocktail served on desert sand, with the bite-sized kachori.
DrinkThe Gypsy Trade, made with homemade saffron liquor and served on desert sand, and a Piquant sharpened with Mathania chilli and jaggery
FoodBar nibbles such as bite-sized kachori and dried roomali roti with a Parmesan and truffle oil dip
TipThe haveli sits down a narrow lane off Johri Bazaar; service runs 13:00 to 17:00 and again from 19:00 to 23:30.
Sampat Namkeen Bhandar in Chandpole Bazaar, Jaipur, has fried spicy aloo kachori with an unpeeled-potato filling since 1936, by Time Out's account.
OrderThe aloo kachori, which comes without chutney; expect to want a second.
TipBring cash, because the shop does not take online payments; it is opposite Darbar School on Baba Harishchandra Marg.
Puran Ji Kachori Wale has fried hing kachoris filled with moong dal at Chaura Rasta in Jaipur since 1963, and serves them with fresh curd instead of chutney.
OrderThe hing kachori with curd, then a mawa kachori or a samosa.
TipBesides the hing kachori the shop sells mawa kachori, hing namkeen, samosa, pyaaz kachori and dahi kachori, plus laddoos and jalebis.
Radhe Kachori Wala is a small old-city shop on Churukon Ka Rasta in Jaipur, frying spicy kachoris and hot samosas from 06:00 to 22:00 every day.
OrderA freshly fried kachori straight from the pan, and a hot samosa.
TipYash Dixit's Kachoris of Jaipur puts it opposite Puran Ji Kachori Wale, so the two shops can be tried back to back.
Samrat Restaurant at 273 Chaura Rasta in Jaipur sells pyaaz kachori, samosas and poha, and a crowd gathers for them early each morning in the old city.
OrderThe pyaaz ki kachori with tamarind and coriander chutneys, or bedmi poori with aloo sabzi.
TipGo early, before the morning crowd builds; the Chaura Rasta shop is the one Outlook Traveller's local writer recommends.
Sharma Chat Corner fries aloo tikki in a large pan on MSB Ka Rasta in Johari Bazaar, Jaipur, and serves it with spicy chickpea curry and chutneys.
OrderThe crisp aloo tikki with spicy chickpea curry and the coriander and tamarind chutneys.
TipIt opens at 15:00, so it suits an evening walk through Johari Bazaar rather than a morning one.
Sambhar Fini Wala on Ghee Walon Ka Rasta in Johari Bazaar, Jaipur, has sold Rajasthani sweets since 1966, by Time Out's account, led by pheeni and ghewar.
OrderPheeni dipped in hot sugar syrup with pistachios, or the malai ghewar.
TipPheeni is eaten standing outside the shop without a spoon, so expect sticky fingers; the shop opens at 08:00.
Pandit Kulfi is a long-running kulfi shop at 110 Hawa Mahal Road in the old city of Jaipur, known for kesar and rabri kulfi, open until 23:30 every day.
OrderThe kesar kulfi and the rabri kulfi; Outlook Traveller Eats also hears good things of the chocolate kulfi.
TipOutlook Traveller Eats names Ramchandra Kulfi Wala in Tripolia Bazar as the close rival if the queue is long.
Shree Prajeet Chaat Bhandar on Baba Harishchandra Marg in Chandpole Bazar, Jaipur, fries aloo tikki served with tangy chutneys, from 13:00 to 22:00.
OrderThe crisp aloo tikki with the tangy chutneys, then the meetha patta chaat.
TipIt opens at 13:00, so it is an afternoon and evening stop; Sampat Namkeen Bhandar is on the same road, Baba Harishchandra Marg.
Rajasthan Cultural Tours runs a three hour walk from Golcha Cinema through the old city, with samosa, kachori, sweets and masala chai tastings between artisan lanes.
TipThe operator calls its route a sample and changes streets and food stops by day; bottled water is included and vegetarian options run throughout.
Vinayak of Hungryhitchhiker leads food walks from Golcha Cinema through Jaipur's old city: chai, snacks and a full meal, with the stories of the city.
TipThe route is the one Condé Nast Traveller India described in March 2024; the host will adjust it for guests who want non-vegetarian food.
Ultimate Urban Adventures runs a two hour vegetarian street food walk from Raj Mandir Cinema through the old city, with six or more tastings and a homemade dessert.
TipThe operator says every stall on the walk is pure vegetarian, with vegan and Jain options on request; hotel pick-up is an optional extra at checkout.
Ultimate Urban Adventures leads this 2.5 hour walk from Chandpole Hanuman Ji Temple through the spice market, then by tuk-tuk to Tripolia Gate for vegetarian tastings.
TipHotel pick-up is not included because the meeting point is inside the old city; the operator says the tour runs in all weather and suits all ages.
The Jaipur Teej Festival carries the Teej Mata procession from the City Palace through Tripolia Bazaar and Chhoti Chaupar on two monsoon evenings, with ghewar the sweet of the season.
TipFind a spot on Tripolia Bazaar before the procession sets out, then buy rabri ghewar at Sambhar Fini Wala in Johari Bazaar.
Jaipur's Gangaur Festival sends a procession from the City Palace through Tripolia Bazaar, Chhoti Chaupar and Gangauri Bazaar each spring, with ghewar the sweet of the season.
TipThe date follows the Hindu calendar: the 2026 procession ran on 21 March and Rajasthan Tourism lists the 2027 edition for April, so confirm before you book.
Mahaveer Rabri Bhandar in Chandpole Bazar, Jaipur, serves a thali of aloo pyaz sabzi, tikkad roti and garlic chutney, then laccha rabri; about ₹400 for two.
OrderThe aloo pyaz sabzi thali with tikkad roti and garlic chutney, then laccha rabri.
TipTime Out advises crushing the roti, pouring the sabzi over it and adding the garlic chutney; this is the Chandpole shop.
Laxmi Misthan Bhandar, known as LMB, runs a vegetarian restaurant and sweet counter on Johari Bazar Road in Jaipur, with thali, kachori and ghewar.
OrderThe thali with dal baati churma and kadhi, then the ker sangri, and ghewar to finish.
TipThe sweet counter and the restaurant share the Johari Bazar Road address; Lifestyle Asia lists the shop as open from 07:00 to 23:00.
Sampat Namkeen Bhandar in Chandpole Bazaar, Jaipur, has fried spicy aloo kachori with an unpeeled-potato filling since 1936, by Time Out's account.
OrderThe aloo kachori, which comes without chutney; expect to want a second.
TipBring cash, because the shop does not take online payments; it is opposite Darbar School on Baba Harishchandra Marg.
Sharma Chat Corner fries aloo tikki in a large pan on MSB Ka Rasta in Johari Bazaar, Jaipur, and serves it with spicy chickpea curry and chutneys.
OrderThe crisp aloo tikki with spicy chickpea curry and the coriander and tamarind chutneys.
TipIt opens at 15:00, so it suits an evening walk through Johari Bazaar rather than a morning one.
Puran Ji Kachori Wale has fried hing kachoris filled with moong dal at Chaura Rasta in Jaipur since 1963, and serves them with fresh curd instead of chutney.
OrderThe hing kachori with curd, then a mawa kachori or a samosa.
TipBesides the hing kachori the shop sells mawa kachori, hing namkeen, samosa, pyaaz kachori and dahi kachori, plus laddoos and jalebis.
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