A dense frozen milk dessert flavoured with saffron, pistachio or cardamom and set in moulds without churning; Jaipur's old-city kulfi shops stay open late.
Wikipedia traces kulfi to 16th-century Mughal Delhi and gives the name as Persian for covered cup, though historian Charmaine O'Brien suggests it evolved in Persia or Samarkand. It is milk slow-cooked until thick, then frozen in sealed moulds without churning. One Condé Nast Traveller India contributor writes that their father went to Pandit Kulfi on Hawa Mahal Road as a child, when it was still a pushcart, and Outlook Traveller Eats names kesar and rabri kulfi there, with Ramchandra Kulfi Wala in Tripolia Bazar as close competition.
Pandit Kulfi is a long-running kulfi shop at 110 Hawa Mahal Road in the old city of Jaipur, known for kesar and rabri kulfi, open until 23:30 every day.
OrderThe kesar kulfi and the rabri kulfi; Outlook Traveller Eats also hears good things of the chocolate kulfi.
TipOutlook Traveller Eats names Ramchandra Kulfi Wala in Tripolia Bazar as the close rival if the queue is long.
Ramchandra Kulfi Bhandar on Tripolia Bazaar in Jaipur sells kulfi near Badi Chaupar until 23:00; Outlook Traveller's writer rates it a rival to Pandit Kulfi.
OrderThe kulfi, then a taste-off against Pandit Kulfi's kesar and rabri flavours.
TipThe shop is on Tripolia Bazaar by Badi Chaupar and keeps late hours, so it works as a last stop after an evening walk through the old city.
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