The restaurants worth a reservation in Heraklion, from neighbourhood bistros to the new classics.
The restaurants worth the trip in Heraklion. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Peskesi cooks Cretan recipes from its own farm at Haraso inside a restored stone mansion in central Heraklion. Book ahead, the room fills nightly.
Signature: Sfakiano lamb, Dolmadakia, Carob mousse
Order: Sfakiano lamb, then the carob mousse to finish
Tip: Ask for the olive oil tasting. The kitchen is supplied by its own farm at Haraso, and the oils are poured alongside rusk.
Parasties runs an open wood fire opposite the Historical Museum in Heraklion, turning out smoked steak, big pork fillets and long-cooked Cretan plates.
Signature: Smoked steak, Pork fillet, Snails
Order: Smoked steak straight off the open wood fire
Tip: Sit where you can see the open kitchen. Staff will walk you through a mostly Cretan wine list if you tell them what you ordered.
Merastri has cooked over a wood oven in Heraklion since 1998, closing lamb in the fire for hours and finishing pork fillet with staka and oven potatoes.
Signature: Arnaki ofto, Apaki, Sarikopites
Order: Arnaki ofto, milk-fed lamb held in the wood oven
Tip: Dinner only from 18:00, and the courtyard tables go first at weekends. The Cretan list is worth an extra glass.
The Walls plates crab samosas, duck and sea bream in a garden inside the Venetian walls of Heraklion, the city's most composed modern Greek cooking.
Signature: Crab samosas, Duck, Potato rosti
Order: Crab-stuffed samosas, then the duck
Tip: The dining room sits inside the Heraklion Tennis Club grounds by the Venetian walls, so allow time to find the gate.
Athali cooks traditional Cretan food on the corner of Kydonias and Kapetan Charalampi in Heraklion, running from lunch through to one in the morning.
Signature: Wood-oven meats, Wild greens, Cretan cheeses
Order: Whatever the wood oven is holding that day
Tip: Kydonias meets Kapetan Charalampi here, two minutes from Peskesi, so it is a useful fallback when that room is full.
Thigaterra cooks to a declared Slow Food brief on the Ammoudara strip west of Heraklion, working Greek producers and Cretan seas rather than a fixed menu.
Signature: Slow food plates, Cretan wines, Seasonal vegetables
Order: The seasonal vegetable plates the menu is built around
Tip: Reserve at least three days ahead. The kitchen asks for confirmation before it holds a table, which weeds out no-shows.
Apiri Greek Eatery reworks Greek standards on Agion Deka in Heraklion, grilling octopus and sea bass and charring a wild greens pie over coals.
Signature: Char-grilled greens pie, Grilled octopus, Smoked sea bass
Order: The char-grilled wild greens pie
Tip: Small room, so book for dinner. Lunch is quieter and the same kitchen is running the grill from 13:00.
Erganos has fed a mostly local room beside Kazantzakis park in Heraklion since 1986, with goat, meatballs and a long list of Cretan vegetable plates.
Signature: Sfakianopita, Goat, Keftedes
Order: Bite-sized sfakianopites with cheese and honey
Tip: The taverna sits beside Kazantzakis park, a short walk uphill from the Archaeological Museum.
Ippokampos is the seafront ouzeri Heraklion sends visitors to, grilling the day's catch and pouring raki at pavement tables across from the water.
Signature: Grilled fish, Octopus, Shrimp
Order: Whatever came in that morning, grilled whole
Tip: Tables spill across the promenade opposite the water, and the seafront ones go first on a summer evening.
Kastella is the seafront fish taverna in Heraklion where the day's catch is cooked simply, sold by the kilo and eaten facing Sofokli Venizelou.
Signature: Fresh fish, Seafood mezedes, Cretan salad
Order: Fresh fish by the kilo with a Cretan salad
Tip: Ask for a table on the sea side; the road side gets the traffic off Sofokli Venizelou.
Ouzeri tou Terzaki has poured raki in a quiet port alley in Heraklion since 1978, sending out mezedes, moussaka and whatever the boats landed.
Signature: Mezedes, Moussaka, Grilled fish
Order: A spread of mezedes, then the grilled fish
Tip: The alley off Plateia Agiou Dimitriou is easy to miss. Aim for the port end of Lochagou Marineli and look for the chairs.
Sir Papafigos works a small-plates menu near the old harbour in Heraklion, opening in the evening on weekdays and running long lunches at the weekend.
Signature: Small plates, Seafood, Cretan wines
Order: A run of small plates built for sharing
Tip: The kitchen is shut on Wednesdays and only opens for lunch at weekends, so a Saturday or Sunday table is the easier one to book.
Arismari & Varsamo cooks lamb over open fire on the seafront side of Heraklion, with bean soup, tzatziki and a menu built on Cretan farm produce.
Signature: Arni ofto, Tzatziki, Fasolada
Order: Arni ofto, lamb marinated in herbs and cooked over fire
Tip: The terrace faces the sea by the Historical Museum square, which makes it a better sunset table than a midday one.
Lola works Mediterranean small plates with a fusion streak on Kydonias in Heraklion, running from lunch to one in the morning six days a week.
Signature: Small plates, Fusion mains, Wine by the glass
Order: A spread of small plates and a glass of Cretan white
Tip: Closed Mondays. The room is small and popular with locals, so book if you want a table after 21:00.
Pagopoieion took over a former ice factory on Agios Titos square in Heraklion, serving breakfast, ethnic-tinged plates and a deep Greek wine list.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Beef tartare, Cretan wines
Order: Mushroom risotto, with a glass off the Cretan list
Tip: The old ice factory on Agios Titos square works as breakfast room, lunch stop and wine bar, so time your visit to the mood you want.
Herb's Garden runs the Lato hotel roof in Heraklion from April to October, looking straight at Koules over fish, Cretan cheeses and seasonal salads.
Signature: Fresh fish, Cretan cheeses, Seasonal salads
Order: Fresh fish with a Cretan white, watching the fortress
Tip: Rooftop of the Lato Boutique Hotel, and seasonal: the team moves downstairs to Brillant from November to March.
Chalali is a plain Greek and Cretan taverna on Strofadon in Heraklion, cheap enough that the room stays local, open six days a week from lunch.
Signature: Cretan mezedes, Grilled meats, Raki
Order: A mezes spread with a carafe of raki
Tip: Closed Mondays, and prices sit well under the old-town average, so the room stays local rather than filling with cruise traffic.
7 Thalasses is the garden fish restaurant in Nea Alikarnassos, east of Heraklion, known for lobster spaghetti, paella and a bright courtyard room.
Signature: Lobster spaghetti, Paella, Tuna fillet
Order: Lobster spaghetti, the reason people drive out here
Tip: It sits by the municipal park in Nea Alikarnassos near the airport, so it works as a last dinner before an early flight.
Ligo Krasi Ligo Thalassa serves seafood mezedes and daily fish on the harbour side of Heraklion, with a terrace pointed at the Venetian fortress.
Signature: Lobster spaghetti, Seafood mezedes, Stuffed courgette flowers
Order: Seafood mezedes, then lobster spaghetti to share
Tip: The terrace looks over the harbour to the fortress, which is worth waiting for an outside table in summer.
Kouzeineri is the steak address in Heraklion, working charcoal near Agiou Titou square with pork hock, chicken wings and a long Greek wine list.
Signature: Steaks, Pork hock, Chicken wings
Order: Pork hock, or a steak off the charcoal
Tip: Tables sit out on Agiou Titou square, and those are the ones worth a booking.