Day-by-day eating plans for Heraklion. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Day-by-day plans

Heraklion weekend: the Cretan classics ★ 4.7

First-time visitor, two days2 days

Two days built around the Agora, the harbour ouzeria and the two wood ovens worth planning a night around, with a bougatsa breakfast at each end.

  1. Day 1: Saturday: bougatsa, the Agora, harbour mezedes and a wood oven

    Morning
    Bougatsa at Kirkor on Lions Square first thing, eaten standing. Then walk the length of the Agora on 1866 Street, buying graviera at the cheese counters and dittany at the herb shops.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Ippokampos on the seafront, grilled fish and a carafe of raki at the pavement tables. Coffee afterwards at Think Tank on Idaiou Androu.
    Evening
    Dinner at Merastri from 20:30 for the milk-fed lamb held three hours in the wood oven, then a Mastiha Sour at Stone Project on Korai.

  2. Day 2: Sunday: phyllo, a Peskesi lunch and the harbour at sunset

    Morning
    Bougatsa with sweet myzithra at Phyllosophies, then coffee at Granary on Kantanoleontos while the old town wakes up.
    Afternoon
    Long lunch at Peskesi from 14:00, ordering the sfakiano lamb and asking for the olive oil tasting from the restaurant's own farm.
    Evening
    Sunset drinks at Toucan Skybar above Plateia Eleftherias, then late mezedes at Ouzeri tou Terzaki in the port alley off Lochagou Marineli.

Heraklion in three days: city, vineyards and villages ★ 4.5

Second visit, three days with a car3 days

Three days that start in the Agora, spend one out among the Peza and Dafnes vineyards, and finish with the fish tavernas and the late grills the city actually runs on.

  1. Day 1: Monday: the old town on foot

    Morning
    Coffee and salmon toast with avocado at Frankly My Dear on Karterou, then down through the Agora to the fish stalls on Karterou Street before they pack up.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Apiri on Agion Deka, where the same kitchen runs the grill from 13:00 and the char-grilled wild greens pie is the thing to order.
    Evening
    Dinner at Parasties opposite the Historical Museum, smoked steak and snails off the open fire, followed by a cocktail at The Bitters Bar on Idis.

  2. Day 2: Tuesday: Archanes, Dafnes and the wine country

    Morning
    Drive to Archanes, twenty minutes south, and eat late breakfast on the central square before walking the restored village lanes.
    Afternoon
    Lunch on the Archanes village square, then on to Dafnes for a tasting of Vidiano and Liatiko at the Douloufakis winery.
    Evening
    Back in Heraklion, dinner on the Lato roof at Herb's Garden facing the Koules fortress, or downstairs at Brillant if it is winter.

  3. Day 3: Wednesday: seafront, brunch and a late grill

    Morning
    Brunch in the garden at 626 All Day off Idomeneos, then a slow coffee at Mare on the seafront.
    Afternoon
    Fish lunch at Kastella on Sofokli Venizelou, ordering by the kilo with a Cretan salad alongside.
    Evening
    Drinks in the roofless courtyard at Xalavro on Milatou if it is open for the season, then a pita gyros at Krasas on Leoforos Ikarou on the way back.
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